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Monday, April 10, 2023

Chasing Wildflower Super Blooms

I feel a deep longing to sit amongst the wildflowers, to see them sway in the breeze, smell the earth, and feel their magical vibes. Ever since I was a little girl, I dreamed of dancing in a flower filled meadow. Would this be the trip when I finally live this dream? 

We are on our annual trip to California to see our son and explore places we love. For me, this is also a journey to find wildflowers, to receive Earth’s gift of peace, joy, and beauty. On our drive from Illinois to California, I travel across brown and gray Kansas knowing that if I could get closer – hugging distance – to the land, I’d see the colors emerge, hidden to the casual passerby. They are gifts only to those chosen few who have a connection to the land, who want and need to explore beyond the highway and experience nature deeper. For that, Nature gives us the gift of beauty and color. As we drive through a Kansas town, purple blooming henbit teases me of what is to come. 

We stop along the way at our cousins in Albuquerque, the Petrified Forest, and the snowy Grand Canyon. Wildflowers begin to emerge as we cross into California at Needles, AZ – small patches of orange scattered in the green hills. Recent rains explode the normally dead-looking, ocotillo with little green leaves all along their stems. Lots of yellow sunflowers and other plants grow along the road too. 

I start to get choked up about Santa Clarita, California. Poppies! So many poppies and lupines in the moist, green hillsides, surrounded by the snow-covered San Bernadino mountains beyond. The green hills light up with orange, yellow, purple, and white wildflowers. Patches of fluorescent orange poppies glow in the distance. Even surrounded by cars in this mostly urban environment, I feel the super bloom excitement begin to build within my soul. Like the California drought, my poppy disappointment drought of missing the last super bloom in 2019 and just missing normal poppy blooms the past couple of years is finally going to end. As a bonus, the Joshua trees bloom all along the way to Santa Barbara. 

Santa Barbara Botanic Gardens

My first view of masses of poppies are at the Santa Barbara Botanic gardens. I stand in the masses of California Poppies (Eschscholzia californica), Blue Eyed Grass (Sisyrinchium bellum), and California Goldenrod (Solidago californica) with mountains in the background under a bright blue sky. Orange patches seem to flow in vast waves all the way to the mountains.

Figure 1. Santa Barbara Botanical Garden poppy meadow.

Other blooms making a statement in the garden include coral bells, Oregon grape holly, and a pink flowering currant. 

Figure 2. Wendy Coral Bells (Heuchera ‘Wendy’) at the Santa Barbara Botanical Garden.

Across the street we explore down the narrow path to view the Channel Islands. All along the path are plants from the islands, including the giant coreopsis (Leptosyne gigantea), Island bush poppy (Dendromecon hardfordii), lupine, and Guadalupe Island senecio (Senecio palmeri). 

Figure 3. Giant coreopsis and Island bush poppy at the Santa Barbara Botanical Garden.

The most interesting plant of the day is the sugar bush (Rhus ovata) – bright white and red berry clusters above big glossy green leaves.  

Figure 4. Sugar bush at the Santa Barbara Botanical Garden.

Nearby, we visit Tyler’s girlfriend Becca at the Santa Barbara Museum of Natural History where she works. In their Sukinanik'oy Garden of Chumash Plants are more than 150 species of wild native plants used by the Chumash people for food, medicine, clothing, shelter, basketry, and tools. Making a statement on this day are a mature, majestic coast live oak tree (Quercus agrifolia), bright blue California lilac (Ceanothus sp.), and white sage (Salvia apiana).

Figure 5. California lilac (Ceanothus sp.) at the Santa Barbara Natural History Museum. The Chumash rubbed the flowers with water to make a fragrant soapy lather for washing.


Figure 6. Coast Live Oak at the Santa Barbara Museum of Natural History.

Flowers by Land (Car) and Sea (Boat)

The California landscape reveals itself to me in various stages and methods during my visit. While on a whale watching boat ride, we see the pretty shoreline, rocky with patches of green and yellow. The water is an aqua blue around our catamaran sailboat. We see seals, but no whales on this trip. Still, it is a beautiful ride along the Santa Barbara coast. 

One spot is especially interesting, so we go back to it by car. There I see a hillside covered in yellow coastal bush sunflowers, also called California brittlebush (Encelia californica). The hillside is adjacent to the Arroyo Burro Beach and Hendrys restaurant. A stone walkway coils up one side a bit for a better view of the beach. We go back there another day for a wonderful breakfast at Hendrys. 

Figure 7. California brittlebush on the hillside adjacent to the Arroyo Burro Beach.

I am so determined to see a superbloom that I join several social media groups that post pictures and locations of where to find the flowers. They mention Figuero Mountain many times, so we drive there to see the wildflower displays, but the road is under construction. We see a few small patches of wild mustard and lupines, but few poppies. We do go by the gates of Michael Jackson’s Neverland, with a colorful pansy display. Later, we hike to the Nojoqui waterfall. I can feel the water spray on my face as I get close. The falls are quite impressive after all the rains.  

Figure 8. Pansy displays at the entrance to Neverland along Figueroa Mountain road.

Figure 9. Nojoqui waterfall.

We also see patches here and there of yellow, orange, and purple on our way to Solvang and the Santa Ynez Valley wineries. The drive through the rolling hills of green in the Santa Ynez mountains is breathtaking, even without flower blooms. Often set next to the ocean, it reminds me of landing in Scotland or of what Ireland must look like. At Beckmen Vineyards we see olive trees in bloom, purple wisteria blossoms, and legume cover crops blooming between the many grape vines. The Fess Parker winery is our main destination. I love it there. From my comfortable patio seat, I have a view of an open grass areas and large oak trees surrounding us. Beyond that are hills of green all around us. I know there must be poppies out there somewhere. The wines there are good, and they take their time with their generous pours. A folksy band adds good music to the experience, making for a peaceful, pretty, and joyful day.  

Figure 10. Fess Parker grapevines with cover crops between the rows.

On the way home we eat way too much at A.J. Spurs in Buellton, then stop at a vista point overlooking the Santa Ynez valley, where the green hills below and beyond look like a painting.

Figure 11. Santa Ynez valley vista point.

Carrizo Plains

My first glimpse at a super bloom is in the Carrizo Plains. Fluorescent patches of orange, yellow, blue, and purple fill the hills of green all around us. The Carrizo Plain National Monument is in the high desert near New Cuyama. We stop there at the Buckhorn restaurant for lunch before venturing out to see the wildflowers. I love that restaurant. Mostly sourced by local farms, the freshly made food is very yummy. 

The Plains are not at peak bloom, but they are still outstanding. The Plains are located between two mountain ranges, along the San Andreas Faultline. As we enter the valley, the hills on each side are covered in masses of fluorescent yellow and purple. Mark drives along Soda Lake Road, and I keep jumping out of the backseat to take pictures. A local lady stops us to warn us to stay on the main road due to mud and lot of other stuck vehicles on the side roads. I really want to go sit out in the middle of the blooms somewhere and take it all in. But that is not allowed, and I get some good pictures instead. It is so quiet here, yet there is a symphony playing in the fields as birds sing among the swaying stems of flowers. So windy! At one point Tyler started to get out of the car and a blast of wind and dust blew into the car – covering everything within.

Figure 12. Carrizo Plain National Monument wildflower displays.

It is a long drive to the other end of the Plain – about 30 miles on a bumpy dirt road. Not a lot of people are out there. This harsh environment is far away and isolated. It is a special place reserved for the plants, animals, rocks, and soils of this place. We are outsiders there and are grateful for our brief visit. We see masses of common fiddleneck (Amsinckia intermedia), redstem stork’s-bill (Erodium cicutarium), Great Valley Phacelia (Phacelia ciliata), Common Hillside Daisy (Monolopia lanceolata), Stanislaus Milkvetch (Astragalus oxyphysus), Yellow Goldfields (Lasthenia sp.), and tidytips (Layia platyglossa) – but no poppies. The visitor center isn’t open, so we do a short hike up to the Soda Lake Overlook. There I finally see nice displays of baby blue eyes (Nemophila menziesii) gusting on the windy hillsides below. We drive home the long way through Santa Margarita. Outside the Plains, on Route 58 (Blue Star Memorial Highway) are similar outstanding super bloom wildflower displays.  

Figure 13. Great Valley Phacelia and Common Hillside Daisy in the Carrizo Plains. 
Figure 14. Common Fiddlenecks in the Carrizo Plains.
Figure 15. Redstem stork’s-bill and Yellow Goldfields in the Carrizo Plains. 
Figure 16. Tidytips in the Carrizo Plains.

Airbnb Home and Nearby Parks

I just love California. The ocean and mountains and tropical flowers, perfect temperatures, and typically few rainy days make it a perfect place. We especially like the countryside. Yet, I feel a bit off this week and worry that I am missing the super bloom that I want so dreadfully to see. The social media wildflower groups are supposed to help me find it, yet somehow their posts make the search feel more competitive than spiritual. They post cropped, nice shots, and I think I want to see what they see. 

In the end, I learn that I was seeing it all along. There are masses of blooms in the hills everywhere we drive. I learn that it is more than seeing, I need to experience the super blooms on my own, in my own way. So, I delete all the social media groups and trust my intuition and inner spiritual connections to reveal what I’m supposed to see. I decide to let the flowers lead and that they will tell me when and where to find them. So, I relax, am patient, and simply enjoy each moment in this paradise.

As I begin to relax, the plants invite me to spend time with them in many locations around our Airbnb. I go for a long solo walk one day to the Alice Keck Memorial Park. It’s a pleasant 20-minute walk there, with a bit of an uphill hike coming back. The park is very nice. Lots of mature plants and water features, benches, and a few structures. I sit on a couple benches to bask in the sun and take in my surroundings. I particularly enjoy the birds in this location. Hummingbirds work in a tall tree, ravens play loudly all around, and spice finches (a new bird for me) eat iris seeds. There are also ducks and turtles nearby. And, of course, there are lots of blooming plants, including a pretty pink blooming oxalis, Foxtail agave (Agave attenuata), Pride of Madeira (Echium candicans), Iris, Clivia, Yellow elder tree (Tecoma stans), and Coastal tea tree (Leptospermum laevigatum). 

Another day, we all enjoy a walk in Rocky Nook Park near our house. It is a town park, next to Mission Creek with lots of rocky outcrops. It truly lives up to its name. Lots of people are there picnicking and BBQing. Such a perfect weather day to be outside. Between the rocks are grasses and forbs, including miner’s lettuce (Claytonia perfoliate), nasturtium, fiesta flower (Pholistoma auritum), and Bermuda buttercup (Oxalis pes-caprae).

Figure 17. Rocky Nook Park.
Figure 18. Miner's Lettuce at Rocky Nook Park.

Figure 19. Fiesta flower at Rocky Nook Park.

The last day we enjoy another park and our house’s patio. Mark and I walk up to Orpet Park, another nice green space in a pretty neighborhood. Particularly interesting there is the Mikey mouse plant fruits. Later, I fully immerse into our Airbnb’s outdoor space and write this reflection...

As I sit here on the back patio of our Airbnb in Santa Barbara, CA I am warmed by the sun rays burning down from the cobalt blue sky above. Occasionally, puffy white clouds block the sun, and we are immediately cool. Yet, the small ocean breeze feels good as it moves my long, brown hair and gently brushes my cheek. I hear the breeze rustling the palm leaves next door. In the opposite neighboring backyard, a metal wind chime rings in rhythm to the palm leaves. These houses are close together, yet it is very quiet here and peaceful. I can see the ocean way down the cliff face of town. It is a couple miles away, and a bit foggy out at sea today. The fog clouds the channel island view making it hard to tell if there is land or more clouds out there. 

I hear birds singing and calling here and there – a dove, mockingbird, raven, and sparrow. Hummingbird wings hum past every now and then. An old gnarly avocado sits in the back middle of the lot. Sparsely foliated plum and cherry trees in need of pruning are on the corner and side. A few pots of succulents and the rest is mainly weeds – sow thistle, mayweed, spurge, and mallow. I’m always impressed by how many shades and hues of green are in our plant world, especially when spotlighted by the sun. 

Lotusland

Lotusland is a divergence from finding natural wildflowers, but so worth it. Mark, Lynn, and I enjoy a 2 ½ hour guided tour around this amazing 37-acre private garden. A docent leads us and two other people around and through the rare and exotic plant collections from around the world. Large collections of cycads, cacti, succulents, aloe, and more. Saying it is impressive is an understatement, and too much to see in two hours. We barely waltz through it. The cacti garden makes the biggest statement. The lemon arbor is surprisingly striking as are the botanical clock and topiaries. I could go on and on. Check out their website at https://www.lotusland.org/, or better yet, go see it for yourself. 

Figure 20. Cactus collection at Lotusland.
Figure 21. Lemon pergola at Lotusland.
Figure 22. Botanical Clock at Lotusland.

Montana de Oro Buchon Trail

March 31, 2023, 11:32 a.m. I levitated and went to poppy heaven! This is a more than magical place. Orange poppies cover the hillside from mountain to ocean – a chorus of orange. Also, a light purple wild radish flower and a few lupines too. Out in the ocean we see the occasional whale spouting and tail fins sparkling in the sun. Birds sing as we walk into the poppy heaven. I kneel to honor them and say thanks for bringing me here and giving me this gift that I’ll treasure forever. 

We drive two hours north to Montana de Oro State Park to hike the Point Buchon Trail. Although accessed through the park, the 6.6-mile roundtrip trail is owned and preserved by the Pacific Gas and Light Company. It is a perfect sunny day and just slightly cool at ocean’s edge. We hike along the coast’s ragged edges and watch the crystal blue-white waves crash against the rocky shore. Old, eroded, holey rocks emerge here and there from the surf. Along the trail are a variety of plants, including lupine, milkvetch, scarlet pimpernel (Anagallis arvensis), Stork’s-Bills, California goldfields, and of course – poppies. 

Figure 23. Scarlet pimpernel (Anagallis arvensis) along the Point Buchon trail at Montana de Oro State Park.

We stop at an overlook and look for whale spouts. Through the binoculars we see the spout sprays of the giant beasts as they move along the coast. Lynn excitedly sees a tail and we can see their fins, or something, sparkle in the sun as they move through the water. Seeing them is a pigeonhole moment for us all. 

Near the trails end – about 2 miles in – the path curves up and across a large hillside COVERED in orange poppies. It is incredible. They just keep getting more numerous and more orange. I kneel and take it all in. Finally, I am smack dab in the middle of a super bloom!  

Figure 24. Rhonda in the poppy super bloom.
Figure 25. Poppies and a wild radish grow along the Point Buchon trail.

Figure 26. Poppies along the mountain side of the Point Buchon Trail. 

We also see an osprey, swallows, and sparrows. They sing beautifully as we walk along. Many California ground squirrels scurry around us and we walk past a recently dug badger hole. There is so much life out here. Gulls and pelicans and geese and cormorants are in the water. It is truly a treasured place. 

Oatman, Arizona

On our drive home, we divert off the interstate to drive route 66’s Oatman Highway. Wow! What a great place. We see wild burros there and an old wild west town. Lots of wildflowers paint the desert floor and interesting rock formations throughout, including notch-leaf scorpionweed (Phacelia crenulata), desert chicory (Rafinesquia neomexicana), brittlebush (Encelia farinose), lupine, Esteve’s Pincushion (Chaenactis stevioides), white woolly daisy (Eriophyllum lanosum),  Chia sage (Salvia columbariae), pygmy poppy (Eschscholzia minutiflora), and Mexican gold poppy (Eschscholzia californica ssp. mexicana). I get out several times to take pictures but never do really capture the colors and beauty of this place. The drive along Oatman highway twists up, around, and through the mountains, exposing vista upon vista. A magical, mystery place. 

Figure 27. Notch-leaf scorpionweed and brittlebush along Oatman Highway in Arizona. 
Figure 28. Wild burro in Oatman, Arizona.
Figure 29.Mexican gold poppy along Route 66's Oatman Highway.

As always, I enjoyed my trip to the Southwest and California. I saw the super bloom, had a lovely boat ride, saw lots of new plants, had good hardy meals and a few healthy ones. I spent time with family and Tyler’s friends. Mostly, I connected with the natural world a bit more, in a personal way. I was patient and sent my love to the plant world. In turn, they welcomed me in to share a little time and space with them. The land is theirs. I felt honored to be in these natural places, and to share a moment in their world. 

Yes, I experienced the super bloom and fulfilled my lifelong dream to be One with the flowers in their natural domain. Along the way, the flowers also taught me a valuable lesson. I cannot force the connection to nature. It will find me. Experiences with nature are personal. Although I share them with others through social media and pictures, the deepest connections I feel of bliss and spirit are so deep within me that they cannot be fully expressed. Everyone needs to take their own journey of exploration. Mine was with wildflowers to learn once again to be patient and listen to their lessons. Beautiful lessons that I want to experience again and again. Maybe my childhood meadow dream is not a one-time fulfillment, but a lifelong journey that I’ve only just begun. 


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