Great Basin National Park’s Amazing Trees, Caves, Meadows, and More

Monday, September 5, 2022. We made it! What an amazing campsite. A stream flows next to us with a beautiful raging sound. Lots of small rivulets flowing and moving across the rocks. Grasses grow on the bank and hang into the water. Large shrubs of multi-stem water birch with red-lenticel speckled bark grow next to it. There is also wood rose, aster, yarrow, thistle, white spruce, and many bright white aspens with small quaking leaves. 

Figure 1. Stream by our Great Basin campsite.

Figure 2. Water birch (Betula occidentalis) growing by the stream campsite.

Figure 3. Aster growing by our campsite.

Figure 4. Wood's rose (Rosa woodsii) near our campsite.

Going to the Great Basin National Park was a bucket list trip for my husband Mark and me. I wanted to see the ancient trees, to feel at one with them and find the magic of this place. This was not our first time in this park. We stumbled upon it by accident in June 2017 while driving our son Derek’s car home from California. We were both so amazed by it and couldn’t wait to return.  

So, in September 2022 we did just that. I expected to commune with the old trees. I wanted to visit the flowing streams again and see the blooming plants. I wanted to camp by the mountain stream. All of that was better than expected, but what I didn’t expect was the magic we felt in the mountain meadow. 

Campground, Caves, and Night Sky

We really like the camping spot and just love this park. It just keeps surprising us.

We camped at the Lower Lehman campground in spot number four. It was a pull through spot – totally isolated from the other campsites and the sound of the creek made it even more private. There was a fire ban, so Mark cooked meals on our camper grill. We enjoyed egg and cheese burritos, pancakes, and coffee for breakfast. For supper he grilled burgers and quesadillas. The site was primitive, but our solar panels and rare generator use powered the camper enough for our needs. 

Figure 5. Mark cooking on our camper grill.

We spent a lot of time sitting by the stream and enjoying nature all around us. In the morning we watched the pretty sunrise over the mountain near our camper. In the evening we watched the sky turn dark and fill with stars.

Figure 6. Sunrise from camp.

This is a certified dark sky location, and the park includes an impressive amphitheater near the visitor center. They used red lights all along the long walk from the parking area to the amphitheater to respect the dark sky. The ranger gave a PowerPoint program against the building while two other rangers set up the massive telescopes. It was an interesting program. Unfortunately, the evening we went our sky was bright with a mostly full moon and there was significant cloud cover. Still, we were able to see Saturn in the telescope when it was our turn. It was a bright white sphere with rings. You could see Saturn’s moons too as small white dots. The ranger also pointed out other planets, some constellations, and where the milky way appeared. 

In contrast, I experienced complete darkness in the park’s Lehman cave. I went on a cave tour the first day. Mark tried to go, but his claustrophobia prevented his participation. It was the most amazing cave I’ve ever seen. The tour lasted about 90 minutes. We walked through various low hanging and tight areas and into larger rooms. I saw many stalactites and stalagmites and columns. This cave also has more shields and parachutes than any in the world. At the end our guide turned off the lights for two minutes so that we could experience total darkness. Eerie, yet peaceful.  

Figure 7. Parachute feature in Lehman cave.

8. Lehman cave structures.

 Bristlecone Pine Trees and Glacier Trail Hike on Tuesday, September 6, 2022

It is hard to fathom how old these trees are or what they’ve seen and experienced during their lifetime. A bucket list hike for sure!

The main purpose of this visit was the 2.8-mile round trip hike to the ancient bristlecone pine trees. At the turn around point, there was an interpretive trail that winds around a large grove of trees. The trees are amazing. We saw some estimated to be 3,300 years old, though there are in the park up to 5,000 years old. They are gnarly, but strong. The needles are short and tight in their brush shape – 5 needles per bundle. There are also limber pines (also with 5 needles per bundle), though they aren’t as old. The limber pines have brown bark while the bristlecone’s is more orange. 

Figure 9.  Rhonda with an Ancient bristlecone pine.

Figure 10. Limber pine (Pinus flexilis).

Figure 11. Bristlecone pine (Pinus longaeva).

From the tree trail we decided to hike another mile up to the Wheeler Peak Glacier. We felt good physically, especially considering we started at 10,000’ elevation and had just hiked up another 1,000’ or so. The hike to the glacier was very rocky, especially above the tree line. There were many wildflowers up there – such durable plants in the harsh alpine ecosystem. There were flowers of blue, white, yellow, and a red, all with miniature leaves and habit. 

Figure 12. Rhonda in purple in middle of glacier. 

Figure 13. Alpine plants along the Glacier trail. 

Figure 14. Alpine mountain sorrel (Oxyria digyna).

Figure 15. Sticky polemonium (P. viscosum).

Figure 16. Glacier trail with alpine plants and snow patch in distance.

Figure 17. Cushion phlox (Phlox pulvinate)

Mark had to stop so I walked further towards the glacier. I got mostly there and probably was on top of the glacier, which is mostly under the surface. It was a hard walk back through the rocks, though it got better once we were below the tree line. 

Baker Creek Loop and Arctic Lakes Trail on Wednesday, September 7, 2022
Now we’re by the creek sitting on a bridge. The ice cold, clear mountain snow runoff water flows quickly under me. Big boulders covered in moss dot the creek. The water rushes around, over, and between the boulders in little waterfalls, calm pools, and small swirls. Along the banks are sedges and some water plants, large Douglas fir, white fir, and aspen too. Up the trail a bit we saw some very large Ponderosa pine – bright orange bubblegum smelling bark with long needles. (Yes, I stopped to smell the bark). Just off the bridge is a large patch of Jacob’s ladder with delicate compound leaves, though no blooms. 

This was the hike we did in 2017 that surprised us so much, though we didn’t do the entire trail that year. The trail follows the Baker Creek down over to an offshoot creek, to a big meadow, and back along Baker Creek again. It was mostly uphill (with a 1,300’ gain) until we turned to go back towards our Tiger motorcycle parked at the trailhead. We got turned around at the meadow and went the wrong way for a bit, but that revealed some great plants. 

Figure 18. Baker Creek. 

Figure 19. Manzanita on Baker Creek Loop trail.

Figure 20. Rabbitbush on Baker Creek Loop trail.

Figure 21. Blue elderberry (Sambucus cerulea) on Baker Creek Loop trail.

The meadow was a WOW moment. A big open green meadow with mountains all around and aspen at the edge. We saw a turkey there, and lots of sagebrush. 

Figure 22. Baker Creek Loop trail mountain meadow.

In late afternoon, we hiked the alpine lakes trail 3.3 miles past two lakes: Stella and Teresa. They are both very shallow and are even more shallow in the current drought conditions. They freeze solid in winter so there aren’t any fish in them. As we approached Stella Lake there was a stream with orchids lining it. They were not in bloom, but still were charming as they drooped loosely over the slender stream. 

Figure 23. Along the Alpine Lakes Loop trail.

Figure 24. Orchids along stream on Alpine Lakes Loop trail.

Figure 25. Teresa Lake.

Figure 26. Stella Lake.

This hike had more wildlife than others so far. There were lots of mule deer all along the trail. It must have been their feeding time of day. We also saw birds, including raptors, jays, warblers, and swallows. 

Figure 27. Mule deer along Alpine Lakes Loop trail.

We spent four days in this amazing National Park. In between hikes and resting at camp, we rode the Tiger motorcycle up and down and around the park. Below is a video of us riding the Triumph Tiger motorcycle along Wheeler Peak road. As can be seen, the views are outstanding from my vantage point as passenger. 

This National Park continues to surprise and excite the inner core of our being. What a magical, spiritual place. We can’t wait to come again.

Silverton, Colorado Yoga Retreat Provides Curiosity, Courage, and Joy

Sunday, September 11, 2022. I sit by the creek on big rocks that cradle me in this place. Aspen, spruce, and fir whisper to each other beside me, welcoming me – a stranger in their midst. A small curious chickadee flits and flies next to me, calling chick-a-de-de-dee. He lands close to me on a lower dead branch and twitches his head back and forth studying me and my movements. He’s not scared and stays long enough to know I welcome and thank him for his gift of curiosity. 

The creek too provides me with a gift – a gift of joy. It tumbles and flows in front of me, laughing as it falls over rocks into hilarious bubbling eddies. Waves of joy “wash” over and through me as the cool, clear water makes its journey towards the larger Animas River. 

Figure 1. Sitting along the river in Silverton Memorial Park
where I received nature’s gifts of confidence and joy.

Gifts from nature are all around us if we listen hard enough and take time to receive. Life is busy and sometimes we can’t get beyond the swirling thoughts in our head – of past mistakes, of future worries. Yet, if we just take time to be present in the moment, gifts will present themselves to us. For me that often comes through Nature. As described above, I feel the connection to plants and animals and places. I feel the plants deepest.

On this day, I heard nature’s messages of peace and joy and love. I found a spiritual connection and oneness with the natural world. It gave me confidence during the yoga retreat I was attending – confidence to do the Via Ferrata the next day, and joy as I celebrated what I’d already accomplished on this retreat with Bigger Life Adventures.  

Hike to Ice Lake on Saturday, 9-10-22

I did it! I climbed up to the Ice Lake Basin. It was very difficult and many times I didn’t think I’d make it. I had to sit down many times to rest but I pushed on. So glad I did. 

On Saturday before our big hike, we did yoga in the morning before breakfast. Breakfast was eggs, tofu, potatoes, fruit, and coffee. Yoga and healthy food gave me strength mentally and physically to do the hike. Along the hike, I got inspiration from protein snacks, water, and nature around me – particularly the plants. They forced me to slow down to study them and photograph them, yet at the same time giving my heart time to slow it’s beat and encouraging me to continue. 

The hike was uphill almost the whole four miles to the Ice Lake. About one mile up was a large, burned area. Lots of wildflowers were starting to grow there, including arnica, geranium, campanula, and fireweed. A large waterfall was in that area too. 

Figure 2. Burned area at beginning of Ice Lake trail.

Figure 3. Fireweed (Chamaenerion angustifolium)

Figure 4. Wildflowers on Ice Lake trail. Arnica and Erigeron.

Figure 5. Wild geranium

Figure 6. Waterfall at beginning of Ice Lake trail.

Beyond that the trail had a lot of switchbacks and steep climbs. We hiked beyond the burned area into forests of spruce, fir, and aspen. I kept winding around and around, taking multiple breaks to photograph wildflowers and other interesting plants. I was especially excited when I saw gentian growing along the trail. I also found ferns, Jacob’s ladder, red elderberry, and potentilla. 

Figure 7. Ice Lake trail. 

Figure 8. Gentian.

Figure 9. Jacob's Ladder.

Figure 10. Fern.

Figure 11. Red elderberry (Sambucus racemosa).

Figure 12. Potentilla flower.

I was well behind most of our group and had to stop a lot to rest. At one point, I had big doubts I could do the entire hike. I decided to just keep going at my slow pace until I either made it to the top, or the others came back down. Then, around a corner, there were several in our group resting and waiting. That gave me inspiration to go on. I also heard a woman and man that were going down the trail indicate a spot where someone had turned back on their way up, and they said that it was too bad since he was so close. That inspired me to keep going. 

Figure 13. Location where I contemplated my ability to do the Ice Lake trail hike.

Well, it wasn’t close at all, but of course I didn’t know that yet. There was a large meadow area that was flat and that really helped revive me. The open meadow featured different plants, including yarrow, wolfs bane, paintbrush, and currant. 

Figure 14. Ice Lake trial upper meadow.

Figure 15. Alpine currant (Ribes alpinum).

Figure 16. Indian paintbrush (Castilleja sp.).

Figure 17. Campanula.

Figure 18. Wolfbane (Arnica montana).

The last mile was the hardest. Thankfully, there were spectacular vistas, as well as the armeria and corn lily to keep me occupied. Ended up, I got to the top before some others in our group. I was so excited I wanted to jump up and down. 

Figure 19. View from upper Ice Lake Trail.

Figure 20. Armeria sp.

Figure 21. Corn lily spike growing in rocks along upper Ice Lake trail.

Ice Lake was ice blue and very clear. We were above 12,000’ elevation. It was four miles there and took three hours. We took some fun pictures and ate our sandwiches that Sam had made for us. They were amazing – chickpea salad with celery and arugula on marbled rye. Veta said it was the best sandwich she’d ever eaten. I agreed, though I also think we were just really hungry, and food tasted great in that pristine location. 

Figure 22. Rhonda at Ice Lake.

The walk back down was much easier, though the angle was hard on my knees. The hiking poles helped keep me from sliding down too much. I looked closer at many of the wildflowers I’d missed going the other direction. Somehow, they were more brilliant when I wasn’t panting so hard. It took two hours to go down. 

Figure 23. Ice Lake trail.

Figure 24. Rhonda on climb down Ice Lake trail.

That evening we all felt exuberant, though tired. After a sweet & sour tofu over rice supper with a side of air fried broccoli and cucumber-vinegar salad, Alan and Mable led us in a relaxing Gong Sound Bath. Alan is amazing on the gongs. He explained it all to us then we laid down with an eye pillow (with lavender). They walked around us with instruments too. It is a very deep experience. I felt immobile at times. I felt the gong’s vibrations as they vibrated the water in my cells. I could see celestial lights. I saw a woman in a Tibet type robe telling me I am amazing just as I am, to embrace the real me, and to embrace my age and my looks. Be strong and confident. 

Free day on Sunday 9-10-22

Morning yoga was great. She had us do laying down pranayama at the end. I pictured myself in a meadow in total peace and bliss. Another ah-ha moment was the feeling of safety on my mat. My sacred place. My intention was to bring in clarity and release control.

My free day included walking around town, and meeting Mark for coffee. I walked 1.5 miles from the house and back and forth to the Animas River next to Silverton. I watched a rescue helicopter take off and come back twice for supplies. My guess is it was training or setting up something somewhere. I, of course, at first worried about Mark on the Tiger. I know I need to let that go. Worry accomplishes nothing but increased anxiety. 

After sitting by the stream in Memorial Park, the walk back to our house was amazing. I found a little school garden. There was a memorial to Chinese immigrants. Native food plants along the fence had signs with their indigenous Ute name and uses. I was very touched by this. 

On this day, I found blooming plants in obvious places such as in the front yards of houses. I also saw them in inconspicuous places, such as growing in rocks along the river. There were some gorgeous wildflower type flower beds in front of houses and churches with baby’s breath, cornflower, poppy, centauria, catchfly, delphinium, and more. A hummingbird moth worked the flowers, especially the catchfly. Some are native and some exotic, but they all caused me to stop in wonderment to admire their beauty (see examples below).

Figure 25. Butter-n-Eggs (Linaria vulgaris) along the Animas River. 

Figure 26. Animas River flowing through Silverton, Colorado with small sagebrush and other small trees and shrubs growing along its banks. 

Figure 27. Morning Cloak butterfly on Spruce, growing along Animas River.

Figure 28. Lupine growing in Silverton Memorial Park.

Figure 29. Mayweed growing along Animas River.

Figure 30. River in Silverton Memorial Park

Figure 31. Aspen, fir, spruce, and pine along the river in Silverton Memorial Park.

Figure 32. Leafy Goosefoot.

Figure 33. Tansy 

Figure 34. Flowerbed with California poppies and more wildflowers. 

Figure 35. Flowerbed with baby breath, poppies, bachelor’s buttons, and catchfly.

Figure 36. Hummingbird moth on Sweet William catchfly (Silene armeria).

Figure 37. Pincushion flower (Scabiosa sp.)

Figure 38. Candle Larkspur (Delphinium elatum)

Figure 39. Clustered bellflower (Campanula glomerata). 

Figure 40. Mountain Cornflower (Centaurea montana).

Back at the house I was given another gift of nature. I saw a black feather as I walked around the house to sit in the backyard. It is a spiritual symbol of divinity, protection, knowledge, and wisdom. 

 41. Black crow feather.

Evening yoga was yin with a five minute or longer holds. Some of it was hard and I seemed to shake a lot. Supper was amazing. Sam called it deconstructed lasagna. A base of nut cheese with roasted zucchini and veggies on top, covered with sauce and asparagus spears. A couple of roasted mushrooms on the side. We all sat around and talked a long time after dinner. 

Via Ferrata on Monday, 9-11-22

6:45 a.m. Today is the day that takes me most out of my comfort zone. I tell myself to have a joyful climb above the Box canyon. I will do it and it will be fun and magical – like a bird viewing the mountain landscape from above. Few people experience that. I can and I will!

3:00 p.m. Wow! I did it! The Via Feratta was very intense and difficult. 

We drove to Ouray for our gear then had to hike up a hill to get to the climbing area. I hooked my carabiniers to the cable and went down the first section to the cable bridge. OMG! I lost it and freaked out. I started to cry and wanted to turn around. The others encouraged me and told me I could do it. Samy came to the other end and coached me to continue. So, I hooked onto the cable and walked across the tight rope high above the canyon river. One step at a time. It really wasn’t that bad once I got started. 

Figure 42. Rhonda finally walks across the cable bridge.

The rest of the course was hard and moderate here and there. There were hand holds and foot holds in some places. I had to sort of rappel down at times. The hardest were the rungs that went straight up a vertical cliff. Those took a lot of arm and leg strength. I got hot and took off my long sleeves. The main problem was that Carrie had my water bottle and I couldn’t drink. I felt very dry and tired. It took 1 ½ hours to do the course. At the end I took the easier way out, sort of, up a long cable ladder. I felt good at the end – almost wanted to cry happy tears. I did it!!!

Figure 43. Rhonda moving ropes along Via Ferrata.

Figure 44. Rhonda moves along rock face.

Figure 45. Rhonda is a climber!

The rest of the day was relaxing and spiritual. We had a long soak in the Orvis Hot Springs in Ouray. Back at the house, I rested and took a shower before going down for yoga. Alan taught an amazing evening restorative yoga class while playing his beautiful gongs. He started with a chakra pranayama. We breathed in with each chakra and then hummed on the exhale to the chakra’s pitch, using the sound bowl. They are key of c–root chakra, d-sacral, e-solar, f-hearth, g-throat, a-third eye, and b-crown. He used several poses new to me, which were great. 

After yoga, Sam made a delicious curry for supper. Yellow curry over rice with a salad. Veta bought us all vegan ice cream for dessert. What a great day. 

Take-home messages on Tuesday, 9-13-22

I can’t believe it is almost over. This has been a wonderful experience. 

Today in sharing circle we each gave our takeaway message than we each gave two words to describe everyone else. I was blown away by their words for me: calm, grounded, brave, confident, a growing flower, learner, courageous, youthful, inspiring. I always wonder how others feel about me. These kind words that were heartfully spoken spoke volumes to me. In such a short time, these wonderful people really got know me, and better yet, the real me was expressed to them. I was me the whole time – and that’s a good thing.