We journeyed to see the biggest trees, deepest canyons, tallest mountain, and lowest place in America. All were giants in their own magical way. We were already on a high from our Joshua Tree Yoga Retreat and the next portion of our adventure escalated those feelings of bliss in nature.
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| Mark among giants at Sequoia National Park. |
After Joshua Tree we stayed one night at Paradise Cove Campground near Lake Isabella. The lake was low, and the area was very dry, so there was a fire ban. There were only a couple other campers there. Across the lake were rolling hills and mountains of sandy brown in front and dark grey behind. The next morning, we took our time getting around, watching the sun come up to light up the hills all around us. We were also back to our usual oatmeal and toast instead of Zach's great breakfasts that we enjoyed so much during the Joshua Tree Yoga Retreat (See 2024 Fall Journey Part 1).
The GPS took us on a roundabout, long road to Kings Canyon National Park. We're not sure we took the best route, but it was picturesque with very little traffic. We ended up winding up and around mountains that were often treeless and covered with dry straw-colored grasses. A few areas were black from fire. One section narrowed into one lane with a steep drop off. It started to remind me of Black Canyon Road or another one we did wintering in Morro Bay in 2021. As we entered Kings Canyon National Park, we kept stopping to see the canyon views on the way to our campground.
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| Figure 1. Driving along Dry Creek Road near Badger, California. |
We camped four nights in Kings Canyon National Park’s Sentinel campground, site 48. Our site was on a corner and Mark had to back in the wrong way so that our sliding door faced the picnic area. At first it seemed like a bad spot, but it grew on us with time. There were many empty sites in the campground, and we wondered if at the end of the season they only opened a few that are close to each other. When we arrived, we walked to the visitor center and to the lodge which were all closed for the season. That first night we didn't have a signal, we didn't have a map, and we were really wondering what we were going to do for five days.
That opinion changed quickly the next day. It started with a scenic drive to General Grants Visitor Center, which was an hour away from our camp. Kings Canyon’s views were spectacular that morning with the rising sun shining on its cliffs. There were wow moments around every curve along the steep winding road. We seemed to cling to the canyon wall on one side and teeter on a deep crevice on the other.
At the visitor center we got maps, talked to a ranger, and found out that there is a lot to do there. Joined with Sequoia National Park, they are many faceted with both giant sequoia trees and the deep canyons. We watched a movie about the parks, and it choked me up a bit as I started thinking about the big trees that these parks protect. We bought a box of firewood at Grant General store. I also bought some poppy earrings at the visitor center and Mark got a sticker. We made coffee in the van and drank it on the cafe patio in the warm sun as we studied maps before hiking.
Soon the magic of Kings Canyon was all around me and I was so glad that we were there. We drove to General Grants Tree and hiked all around it. Grant is the third largest, by volume, tree in the world, though there were many large trees there.
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| Figure 2. General Grant sequoia tree in Kings Canyon National Park. |
One tree fell in the 1800s and was hollowed out to walk through. That monarch tree had a big history all the way back to when the calvary camped inside it, protecting the park in its early days from loggers and sheep herders. As I walked out of that monarch tree I really got choked up. The power from the trees was strong and all inspiring.
We drove closer to the North Fork Trailhead and had lunch in the van. There were so few people that time of year that it was easy to park. After lunch, we walked along the North Fork Trail into Grants Grove. Part of Grants Grove had burned in recent years, but new trees were sprouting under the charred beasts. We saw blue elderberry and gooseberry there. Most wildflowers were long dried up from the late summer heat. Yet, with night’s dipping into the 30s, snow was not far away. Snow that brings life sustaining water back to the plants. As we entered the trail, I was astonished by the size of the sugar pinecones. They are humongous at 12 to 18 inches long. Next to the sugar pinecone was a small 1½- to 2-inch cone of the giant Sequoia. Such contrasting sizing and longevity in the DNA of those two cones, though they are both large trees.
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| Figure 3. Mark holding sugar pinecone. |
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| Figure 4. Northern Pygmy Owl. |
That trail was great because we got up close and personal with the large trees. We could hug them and stand in them and feel their soft outer thick bark. We were respectful and appreciative since the majestic large trees are ecologically very sensitive. They are incredible. As John Muir said, “No other tree in the world...had looked down on so many centuries as the Sequoia, or open such impressive and suggestive views into history.”1
With our newly purchased firewood, it was nice to have a campfire again. Our neighbors brought Mark some thin beef strips they'd cooked. The first day they said they saw a bear on the road by our camp. We never did see a bear though we are careful when in bear country. Our other neighbors were an elderly couple with lots of supplies. They seemed busy all the time, cutting wood and cooking. We called them Ruth and Meryl. Across from us was a large campsite with a small camper. A white truck pulled in late each evening and left early each morning, and we wondered if he was a worker or a firefighter.
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| Figure 5. Our campsite at Sentinel Campground in Kings Canyon National Park. |
On Thursday, October 24th, we stayed in King Canyon’s Cedar Grove area by our campground to explore. It was quite cold that morning, so I stewed apples into oatmeal, and we took hot showers. Our first hike of the day was a chilly, yet spectacular one, to the Zumwalt Meadows. Most of the trail washed out a few years ago in a flood. Still, from the alternate rocky boulder trail we caught glimpses of the greener meadow surrounded by cattails, horsetails, and trees. Tall white fir, ponderosa pine, fall colored yellow and orange ferns, and yellowing mountain maple and willows filled in between. So many colors spread across the meadow, backdropped by a sheer cliff of white granite. Mark said it was an outstanding hike.
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| Figure 6. Zumwalt Meadows in Kings Canyon National Park. |
At the Roads End area past our campground, we parked and walked out to Muir’s Rock along the river. John gave many speeches there to save the trees and canyon. I could almost picture him sitting on the rock admiring the canyon all around. Mark saw some fish in the deep pool and got the itch to go fishing.
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| Figure 7. Mark standing on Muir Rock at Kings Canyon National Park. |
We hiked short walks to a couple swift running waterfalls in the area. Grizzly Falls was the tallest, yet swift River Falls was most unique. Swift River Falls fell in through rock crevices into a perfectly round, deep pool of water surrounded by large boulders. The water was a clear emerald green. We wondered if there was copper in the water.
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| Figure 8. Swift River Falls with its emerald green pool. |
We ended the day sitting along the river. We parked our van along the river, I fixed soup and grilled cheese in the van, and then we walked to enjoy the river’s serenity and beauty. Mark fished downstream while I sat on a rock journaling. A helicopter kept flying over and firefighters were nearby as they fought and monitor recent forest fires. Smoke still lingered in blackened areas along the road. It was a lovely afternoon but too soon the sun started to dip behind the cliffs behind us and the evening cold crept in.
Back at camp Mark soon had a fire roaring. We had new neighbors on one side, but Merle and Ruth were still there. Gathering firewood is legal in this park, so we picked up some driftwood and big pieces of bark at the river. The bark was amazing how it barely burned. It really helped tell the story of how the Sequoia trees with two-foot-thick bark could withstand so many fires. We made chili and hot dogs on the fire and stayed out to see a few stars.
On Friday, October 25, we had a great day walking among the giant Sequoia trees in the adjacent Sequoia National Park. It was a long drive from our campground to those groves, so we got up early, had coffee and hit the road as soon as it was light. We stopped at the Grants area for breakfast, then drove mostly right to General Sherman – the largest tree in the world. As soon as we pulled into the General Sherman Tree parking lot, the number of people exploded. It is the most popular spot and attracts peoples from around the world. We heard multiples languages as families and friends enjoyed the area together. General Sherman looked like it did when we were last there 18 years ago. We took pictures to compare then and now. It is a massive tree, though it feels more feminine matriarch than a masculine general to me. From there, we walked about a half mile down a trail to see more trees than back up to the half mile steep path to our van.
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| Figure 9. Rhonda with General Sherman sequoia in 2024. |
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| Figure 10. Rhonda with General Sherman sequoia in 2007. |
We drove to the Giant Forest area and its museum, which were named by John Muir. It was the same building with the same giant Sentinel tree in the front we had seen before. The inside exhibits were newer and very well done. One showed where the Groves were in the various parks and how many trees were greater than 10-foot in diameter. They're so few really, and I am so glad we are protecting them. Another exhibit showed their heights compared to the statue of liberty and other trees. It also showed the oldest tree in the world, the bristlecone pine that lives nearby in the White Mountains. I took a picture of Muir’s quote again that I love, “In every walk in nature, one receives more than he seeks.” His words are still true today and forever more. On the long two hour drive back to camp through the Sierra mountains, we stopped at a few vista points.
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| Figure 11. Rhonda getting passport stamp for Sequoia National Park. |
We had a great final evening in King's Canyon enjoying the serenity and peace while cooking a perfect campfire pizza. We had such perfect weather while we were there. Nights fell into the high 30s but warmed back into the high 60s during the day. Bright blue skies shone above the various types of tall evergreen trees surrounding us. I could hear the roar of the river across the camp. It was peaceful there in the Sierras. What a wonderful place.
On Saturday, October 26, we moved to Yosemite. It was a long drive, and by the time we got to our campground, we felt like we had been in the van for a very long time. We drove through gorgeous mountain with outstanding views. Near Fresno in California’s Central Valley, we got gas and called the boys, then both then did some social media posts while we had cell service.
At Yosemite we drove right to the Mariposa Grove where we had to park and ride a shuttle to the grove. We were in Yosemite part of a day in 2017, but the Mariposa Grove was closed for renovations, so I wanted to see it.2 It felt good to walk around the loop to the Grizzly Tree. What another great tree. It was not as large as others we’d seen, but I found it quite beautiful. It was symmetrical, with more big branches surrounding the tree. Although all sequoias begin in a symmetrical Christmas tree spire shape, they typically change to more open, uneven canopies in their monarch life stage as branches are damaged by fire and storms.
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| Figure 12. Grizzly sequoia tree in standing proud and tall in the middle of the Mariposa Grove. |
Just past the Grizzly tree was the California Tunnel Tree. It was alive with its hole that was cut in 1895 to allow horsedrawn stages to pass through it. Back at the welcome center and our van, we asked a ranger for hiking suggestions while we were there. She suggested the drive up to Glacier Point and told us that Tioga Road would close Sunday at 6:00 p.m. for expected snow. We had planned to stay there two nights, but that closing changed our plans.
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| Figure 13. Rhonda enjoying the view from Yosemite's Glacier Point of Half Dome. |
We drove to our campsite in Hodgson meadows, site 62. The campground was sprawling with many sites. Ours was somewhat hilly so we used blocks under the van wheels. Mark scrounged some firewood, and we cooked burgers on the fire. We had a different site for the next night in the same campground but decided to forfeit it because they were closing Tioga Road. We really wanted to drive Tioga Road out of the park to prevent the long roundabouts and see its awesome views.
So, on Sunday, after showers and breakfast, we headed towards Tioga Pass. It was worth it to forfeit the nights campsite to drive that scenic road across the Sierras. We stopped at several waypoints to look at views and read signs. Many had signage about trees and geology. I was impressed with the tall red fir (Abies magnifica) trees up there with their deeply furrowed red bark silvery colored needles. The most abundant tree up there were the Lodgepole Pines (Pinus contorta ssp. murrayana). We stopped at Olmsted's viewpoint to see Half Dome from the backside. There are so many giant domes and massive rocks up there. The views in the valley go on and on, interrupted only by fluorescent yellow fall-colored trees, possibly aspen, cottonwood, or willow, in the valley.
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| Figure 14. Olmstead Viewpoint on Yosemite's Tioga Pass Road where Half Dome is visible from the other side (shown in center back). |
We sat several minutes by Tanaya Lake. Alpine lakes have such primal beauty, tucked between mountain peaks that feed them and keep them clear and pristine. There is an energy in the air there, almost like others that came before me sat on the same rock and felt nature's peace in the same way. Somehow the prana of ancient, current, and future peoples milled together there, extending the power of that place forever. Such a privilege to add my vibes to that special place.
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| Figure 15. Yosemite's Tanaya Lake. |
Past the Tioga Pass entrance gate, we sat at an overlook and had lunch in the van. The wind was fierce and reminded me that soon snow would cover the hills and valley around me. From there we drove out and down Highway 395. Wind seemed to whip the steering wheel out of Mark's hands at times, but it was a pretty drive between the White Mountains and the Sierra Nevada Mountains. We contemplated turning to go see the ancient bristlecone pines in the White Mountains but ventured on instead.
Where I had phone service, I chose Tuttle Creek campground as our next destination for the night. It was near Highway 395, but there was a detour to get back to the campground. The detour road was narrow and wound around huge boulders that reminded us of Joshua tree. It was awesome! Once there, we chose site 13 with a view of Mt Whitney to the west and White Mountains to the east. A gem of a site.
We really enjoyed Tuttle Creek Campground. We made potatoes and burgers on the campfire and watched a few stars come out, which was such an amazing sight between the mountains. Monday morning I climbed the van’s ladder and sat on the edge of the van to watch the sunrise. It was cold, but so worth it. I saw the visible sliver of Mt. Whitney glow first as it turned slight yellow. Soon it blazed in golden light as other peaks joined in the chorus. Within minutes the entire desert in front and around me glowed in golden morning sunshine. I laughed out loud with glee as it progressed. Such a magical sight to see. One that I’ll remember forever.
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| Figure 16. Sunrise at Tuttle Creek Campground. |
We took the same scenic, twisty road out and it was just as glorious, only with morning sun instead of evening shadows. Death Valley National Park was on the way, so we headed there. We drove across the entire park from west to east, which takes a long time. It is the largest park in the lower 48. As often is the case, it surprised me. I think I expected an expanse of hot sand with a few plants. Instead, we encountered deep canyons where fighter jets train, deep sand dunes with stunted Mesquite trees, and winding roads up and down through boulders and cliffs. At the visitor center we looked around and got some souvenirs and my passport stamp. The exhibits discussed borax mining and deadly pioneer treks. A rare fish lives deep in waters beneath the table salt covered, evaporated lakes.
We drove to the Bad Water Basin at 282-feet below sea level and walked across the salt flat to see the crested salt lines. Holes here and there showed that water lurked just below the surface. It was 90°, hot, dry, and windy there. So harsh, yet a couple plants still grew.
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| Figure 17. Death Valley National Park's Bad Water Basin at 282-feet below sea level. |
On the way back out, we drove through the Artist Palette that snaked through large rocks of varying colors, shapes, sizes, and textures.
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| Figure 18. Drive through Death Valley National Park's Artist Palette. |
We spent our last night in the Virgin River Recreation Area Campground in northwest Arizona, just north of the Grand Canyon. Also adjacent to the Colorado River, it had similar features to the Grand Canyon. The Interstate from Las Vegas to there was quite scenic as we drove through massive towers of rocks where the Colorado River flowed. Such an amazing area. At first we had a little trouble figuring out the National Forest QR code reservation system but finally found and reserved a perfect spot by the river with a view of the cliffs. Site 95 in the lower loop was a pull off with a table and a fire pit. Mark started a fire, but we soon realized it was too windy for a fire, so we just sat outside and watched the darkening sky light up with stars, planets, and the Milky Way. Another magical evening in the West.
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| Figure 19. View from our campsite at Virgin River Campground. |
It rained in the night, which was the first rain of our trip. The next day we drove off and on through snow showers to our next stop. The drive across Utah was quite scenic with varying views of mountains, rocks, and valleys. We listened to John Muir’s Our National Parks book and wished we'd listened to it before visiting Yosemite, Sequoia, and Kings Canyon National Parks. He is so descriptive, and we felt a bit like the “Thousands of tired, nerve-shake, over-civilized people beginning to find out that going to the mountains is going home.”3
At a scenic pull off in Utah, I made grilled cheese sandwiches, and we reserved a spot at the KOA in Glenwood Springs for that night. It was more expensive than the last night at Virgin River at $60 versus $8 but it had amenities and was quite comfortable. It was too cold to be outside anyway.
We stayed Tuesday night in Oakley, Kansas at the High Plains RV spot. They also had a Grub and Chug Café, so we had a supper of salad and pizza that night. They had DVDs to borrow so we watched City Slickers that night and I laughed and laughed. The next morning, we drove south to the Monument Rocks so Mark could see them. We drove past Buffalo Bills large statues at his Cultural Center. It is all impressive and gave me many memories of being there with family in 2021.
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| Figure 20. Mark standing under part of Monument Rocks in Kansas. |
We spent our final evening in Missouri at Pershing State Park in our usual corner spot. Mark quickly got a fire going and we sat outside in the autumn splendor eating hotdogs and chili. The mature oaks all around us created a kaleidoscope of colored leaves above our heads and beneath our feet. We heard squirrels chattering and gathering nuts. Coyotes howled down the hill. Such a perfect, pleasant last evening on our trip.
As we reminisced about our journey that last day, Mark said, “We’ve had lots of pretty!” I answered, “That we have. Wow! That we have!” Of course more “pretty” greeted us as our yellow gingko and Autumn Glory maple trees greeted when as we drove into our driveway.
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| Figure 21. Fall colored trees welcomed us home. |
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1-Muir, John. (1894). The Mountains of California, page 182.
2-Ferree, Rhonda (2024). Botanical Journeys...Exploring Nature's Wonders in our Retirement Adventures, page 65.
3-Muir, John. (1901). Our National Parks, page 1.
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