Preserving Flowers

As you plan your summer gardens, consider adding flowers you can preserve or use in arrangements. The pleasure of growing flowers in a garden is only a portion of gardening enjoyment. Flowers and foliage that is gathered from the garden and preserved or arranged can reward you in many other ways. 

Cutting gardens include flowers that cut well and are long-lasting. Sturdy stems and long-lasting qualities make many plants good choices for cutting flowers. Floral arrangements make superb gifts and are a wonderful way to bring your garden into your home. Flowers that make good cut flowers include yarrow, zinnia, snapdragon, sunflower, and cosmos just to name a few. Many seed companies offer premixed cutting garden seeds. 

dried mums and sunflowers

You can also preserve flowers and foliage for many years by including them in wreaths, arrangements, potpourri, and gifts. Preservation methods include hanging and pressing plants, or using various drying agents.

Hanging or air-drying is the easiest and best method for preserving most flowers. If you have a garden, you have the beginnings for dried plant material. Many annuals, perennials, grasses, and foliage can be preserved easily at home. Dried flowers can add an expensive-looking decorating touch to your home at almost no cost. Flowers that air-dry well are Strawflowers, golden rod, hydrangea, celosia, Queen Anne's lace, statice, baby's breath, globe amaranth, salvia, yarrow and ornamental grasses such as bamboo, cattail, oats, sorghum, timothy, and millet.

dried roses

Pressing flowers is another easy method; however, it distorts the shape and flattens the flowers. The advantage of pressed flowers is that they can be easily mounted and framed. Use these flowers for pressing: Asters, bleeding heart, buttercups, chrysanthemums, columbine, cosmos, dahlia, dogwood, English daisy, geranium, larkspur, lily of the valley, marigold, pansies, poppies, sweet peas, violets, and zinnia. Avoid heavy, fleshy flowers such as hybrid tea roses.

Learn more about Preserving Flowers, with University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator, Alicia Kallal. In this YouTube program, Alicia teaches several techniques you can use at home to preserve flowers and foliage for long-term enjoyment.   

The beauty of a flower in bloom is a fleeting pleasure. To extend their beauty, consider adding flowers to your garden this year that preserve easily. 

Originally Published in Canton Ledger Column on 5-5-18

Philodendron or Pothos

I am so fortunate that I had opportunities during this cold, snowy winter to visit two tropical locations. I went to Costa Rica in December to pick up my son from his semester of studying abroad and I just returned from my husband’s employee reward trip to the Dominican Republic. 

Obviously, I enjoyed the warm, sunny weather in both locations, but I also love seeing the tropical plants there. Many native plants there are ones that we grow here as houseplants. 

pothos on left and philodendron on right

Two that always impress me in their native habitat are philodendron and pothos. Many houseplants are referred to as philodendron, but most are probably pothos. Both are vining plants with green leaves, but they are quite different. Let me try to explain. 

Philodendrons are groups of tropical plants with variously shaped and colored leaves. Most people grow the heartleaf philodendron (Philodendron scandens subsp. oxycardium). This is a rapidly growing vine plant. It has familiar heart-shaped, dark green leaves on slender, flexible vines. This plant grows rapidly. All philodendrons are popular because they tolerate very low light and variable temperatures.

Pothos are quite different plants. The pothos (also called Devil’s Ivy) is also a tropical vine. The difference is that it has crisp, shiny leaves with gold, white, or yellow markings. The most common pothos is the silver pothos (Epipremnum aureum ‘Marble Queen’). It has smooth, waxy leaves variegated with white, especially when young. Pothos need a bit more light and warmer temperatures than philodendrons. In fact, pothos need higher lights levels to develop good leaf markings and variegation.

Both plants do something extraordinary when grown in their preferred tropical environment. They can produce both juvenile and adult leaves. Typically, we only see the juvenile leaves in our home environments. Adult leaves are larger and sometime shaped differently than the juvenile leaves. You’ll see the larger adult leaves at the top of the vining plant once it reaches a certain height. 

These plants are listed as two of the top best plants to clean indoor air. Research done by NASA in the late 1980’s found that several houseplants remove common indoor pollutants such as those found in carpets, furniture, building materials, and cleaning products. The study recommends having at least 15 air cleaning houseplants for the average 2,000 square foot home. 

Do you have pothos and philodendron growing in your house? If not, find a friend who does and have them propagate one for you.

Originally Published in Canton Ledger Column on 2-22-2014 

Poisonous Houseplants

Our family recently (November 2004) added two new puppies to the household. They are seven-week-old Chihuahuas and quite lively, not to mention entertaining. Like most “toddlers” they tend to get into everything and chew on everything but the chew toys. I’ve had to “baby proof” my house all over again, including taking a good look at the houseplants to assure poisonous ones are not within reach. 

Unfortunately, there are a few houseplants that are quite poisonous to humans and/or animals. Remember that there are three routes of exposure for poisoning: through the skin, inhaling through the nose, or eating. I’ll focus only on stomach poisons here that are a problem if eaten. With stomach poisons it is important to remember “the dose makes the poison.” In other words, an amount that won’t hurt a large dog might kill a small one. 

Dumbcane (Dieffenbachia sp.)

There are several houseplants that contain calcium oxalate, a chemical that causes severe burning and tongue swelling. Examples of plants with this chemical include dumbcane (Dieffenbachia sp.), heartleaf philodendron (Philodendron cordata), anthurium, caladium, Swiss cheese plant (Monstera deliciosa), spathiphyllum, arrowhead vine (Syngonium podophyllum), and devils ivy or pothos (Epipremnum aureum). Most of these plants cause painful and immediate swelling of the mouth and throat after chewing on plant tissue. Speech impediment can occur, sometimes lasting for several days.

Some plants contain latex type juices. Examples include aloe and poinsettia. Ingestion of the latex can cause a cathartic (purging) reaction by irritating the large intestine. The actual toxins in poinsettia are unknown, although it is no longer classified as extremely toxic. Reactions to poinsettia for humans range from dermatitis to nausea and vomiting. 

During the holiday season, also beware of toxic holiday plants. Holly berries (Ilex species) can induce vomiting, diarrhea and stupor. Holly foliage (Hedera helix) berries contain saponins, which can cause a burning sensation in the throat and gastronomical upset with vomiting and diarrhea. Jerusalem Cherry (Solanum pseudocapsicum) fruit or foliage should not be eaten. 

Mistletoe (Phoradendron species) berries may result in vomiting, diarrhea and moderate stomach and intestinal pain.  In severe cases there may be labored breathing, dramatically lowered blood pressure, and heart failure.

Please don’t despair. There are many houseplants and decorations that are not toxic. Example of nontoxic houseplants include African violet, baby tears, Boston fern, coleus, Christmas cactus, dracaena, jade, palm, pepperomia, prayer plant, sansevieria (Mother-in-Laws Tongue), schefflera, spider plant, Swedish ivy, wandering Jew, and zebra plant. 

Keep the toxic plants out of the reach of pets and children!

Originally Published in Canton Ledger Column on November 13, 2004  

Paperwhite Narcissus

This week (November 2022) at our Holiday Happenings program we gave away several door prizes, including a paperwhite narcissus kit. Paperwhites are routinely sold in stores this time of year. Like Amaryllis, you force them into bloom in your home. 

Many bulbs are easy to grow indoors for seasonal display and beauty. Narcissus, also called daffodil, are available in many types and colors. Large and small trumpet flowers are available in yellows, creams, and white. 

The paperwhite narcissus is the one most commonly sold for forcing indoors. The boxed bulb kit includes a pre-cooled bulb that is all ready to bloom indoors. Simply pot up and water thoroughly to get it started. 

You can also start your own indoor bulb garden. Almost any bulb will work. Plant the bulbs in pots or bowls, using an indoor soil mix. Place the bulb tips at or slightly above the soil surface. Water thoroughly. Keep planted bulbs dark and cool (35 – 400F) for about 8 weeks. Most people put them in the refrigerator or a cool garage. 

Whichever method you use, once the bulb starts to grow, keep it in a warm, bright location. Do not fertilize. Continue to water as needed. After flowering, either throw away or you can try to keep it for reblooming. Unfortunately, precooled bulbs from kits are often hard to get to rebloom. 

If you try the paperwhite, I must warn you to be prepared. Paperwhites have a very distinctive smell that most people do not find pleasant. It doesn’t bother everyone, but some people really don’t like the odor. Still, it is a beautiful flower and worth trying. 

By the way, there is always confusion over the names of this flower. They are called narcissus, daffodil, and jonquil and many people think all three are synonymous. Narcissus is the generic name and is also used as a common name. Daffodil is a common name that was brought here by the English. Jonquil, however, refers to a specific flower type (Narcissus jonquilla) that has a reed like leaf and sweet-smelling flowers. 

Narcissus is a classical Greek name. According to Greek mythology, Narcissus was a beautiful youth who became so entranced with his own reflection that the gods turned him into a flower. 

Happy Thanksgiving! Remember this is National Family Week.  Take time to share and reminisce with your family. Do not let the hectic meal preparations stand in the way of quality time with your loved ones.

Originally Published in Canton Ledger Column on November 23, 2002

Overwintering Tropical Plants

Tropical plants are popular in the outdoor landscape. These include banana, elephant ear, canna, mandevilla, coleus, and more. Unfortunately, in our Midwestern landscapes, they are basically “one-timers.” They die quickly if exposed to freezing temperatures. Here are a few tips on how to save your tropical plants for use again next year.

Fortunately, there are techniques to overwinter many of these plants thus saving you time and money by having the plants on hand when you need them next spring. Instead of buying new each year, consider overwintering valuable specimens. The measures you take depend on the particular plant and its value, as well as the facilities you have to successfully overwinter them.

There are five basic choices when it comes to overwintering tropicals: 

1. overwinter the plant as a growing houseplant if you have proper conditions indoors,
2. store it as a dormant plant, tuber, or root,
3. collect seed,
4. take cuttings, or 
5. leave it outside in a protected location providing it with suitable mulch or covering. 

Variegated banana growing with
Setcreasea (Purple heart plant)

Many tropicals can be overwintered as houseplants. Large specimen palms, bananas, and ficus can be brought indoors and enjoyed so long as two requirements are met – high amounts of light and added humidity. Provide plants with the brightest location possible. Locate plants in high humidity areas if good light is available or group plants together. Grouping naturally raises the humidity in the vicinity. Expect some leaf loss when they are brought indoors from their outdoor location. 

Elephant ears along my garden pond

Many tropical plants such as elephant ear, canna and caladium form bulbs, tubers or corms. When these plants die back, these underground structures can be dug and stored in a cool, dark place through the winter. The best time to dig the bulbs and tubers is after a light frost has killed the tops back. Trim the stems down to 4-6 inches and dig the plant up. Allow the tubers to dry slightly for a day or so before storing. Place the tubers in a crate or box with ventilation holes and bury the tubers in peat moss or wood shavings. Place the box in a cool (45-50 degree), dark area. Inspect the tubers regularly through the winter checking for rotting or excessive shrinkage. If tubers are drying out, add just mist a small amount of moisture on the peat. Check out my Elephant Ears video on YouTube.

Enjoy your tropical plants indoors this winter. They’ll provide a bright, warm look to your home on a dark winter’s day.

Originally Published in Canton Ledger Column on October 10, 2011

Orchids Make Elegant Houseplants

I have a couple orchids at home but have not had great success with them. Sandy Mason, Illinois Master Gardener Coordinator, writes the following about orchids. She also teaches a webinar about moth orchids. I’m hoping that Sandy will show me how to make my orchids grow better. 

My Dad's (Ron Simmons) orchid

Not all orchids enjoy the temperature and humidity commonly found in homes; therefore, some may require special lighting and humidity control for indoor growing. “An orchid obsession is easily cultivated by many enthusiasts,” Sandra Mason says. “However, if you are looking for an easy-to-grow and elegant houseplant, moth orchids are a great option.

“Phalaenopsis or moth orchids possess dark, shiny green leaves adorned with showy flowers of pink, white, or yellow. Imagine a flock of fluttering moths dancing on an arching high wire,” Mason says. “Moth orchids are native to Asian jungles. In the U.S., we find them in stores fluttering next to the apples and lettuce or lumber and nails. 

According to Mason, moth orchids are not only easy to grow but also one of the easiest to encourage to re-bloom. 'Sussex pearl,' femme fatale,' or 'southern ruby' are just some of the 12,000 hybrid "phals" available. The flowers will last an amazing two to five months. “I had one flowering in my office for so long, visitors thought it was a wax replica,” Mason says.

Unlike other common houseplants, moth orchids do not live in soil. They are epiphytes, so-called air plants. As Asian jungle natives, they cling with long thick roots to rocks and trees. Their moisture is gathered from rain, dew, and humidity and their nutrients from decaying leaves and other debris that accumulates among their roots. “This likely does not describe your living room,” Mason says, “but the conditions are fairly easy to reproduce by paying attention to light levels and watering practices and using an orchid planting mix.”

Mason offers a few simple steps for growing moth orchids as beautiful houseplants.

Orchids require bright light (but no direct sun) to bloom, such as an east or shaded west or south window. 

Generally, orchids bloom when night temperatures are cooler than day temperatures.        

Orchids appreciate high humidity between 40 and 85 percent; however, moth orchids are more forgiving than many orchids of the dry air in our winter homes. 

Orchids need thorough watering and regular fertilization during their growing season. 

Don’t overwater. 

The potting mix should provide good air penetration and fast water drainage. 

Learn more about Sandy’s orchid tips at her webinar when she will discuss how this easy-to-grow moth orchid makes an excellent houseplant.  In this webinar, state Master Gardener Coordinator, Sandy Mason, will help you learn how to grow, repot and even rebloom moth orchids.   

Moth Orchids – Start an Orchid Odyssey is available free on YouTube for home viewing.

Originally Published in Canton Ledger Column on 2-25-17 

Norfolk Island Pine

The Norfolk Island Pine is commonly sold as a holiday plant. It is sometimes even used as a small indoor Christmas tree. Often the small trees are sold already decorated with little balls and tinsel. 

Norfolk Island Pines are very formal looking plants. The branches are horizontal forming tiers of foliage around the branches at regular intervals along the stem. It has a graceful form with drooping branch tips. 

Norfolk Island Pines (Araucaria heterophylla) are subtropical trees from the Norfolk Islands in the South Pacific. They grow quite large (200 feet tall) in tropical settings. In our cold climate, however, we grow them as houseplants that reach six feet tall by four feet wide. These elegant, tolerant conifers will thrive for many years in home conditions. They are quite easy to grow if a few guidelines are remembered. 

A common complaint of this plant is needle drop. Needle drop can result from sudden dry air, drafts, or dry soil. Remember that these are tropical plants and therefore must be covered during transport from the store to your home. Place these plants where the tree will not be damaged by traffic, as broken branches do not grow back. 

Give this plant plenty of light and the proper moisture. Steady, moderate light, not necessarily direct sun, is best. In low light, branches become long and droopy, and top growth slows. As with most houseplants, allow the soil to dry between watering. Overwatering can lead to loss of branches. 

These plants can tolerate temperatures as low as 45 degrees F, but do best between 65- and 75-degrees F. A subtropical plant, such as this one, will not tolerate temperatures for long below 40 degrees F. without showing damage. 

Norfolk Island pine is a long-lasting houseplant that grows slowly at only three to six inches annually, if you’re lucky. I have had mine since 1984. I got it at the University of Illinois Horticulture Club’s Mothers’ Weekend flower show when it was about 8 inches tall. My plant has moved with me many times and has not always had the “perfect” location. Today, it is about five-feet tall and sits in a corner of my living room. I love this plant!

Enjoy your Norfolk Island pine this holiday season or pick up a new one. With proper care it will be with you for years to come.

Originally Published in Canton Ledger Column on December 8, 2012