Wedding Flowers

On June 1 (2015) my husband Mark and I will celebrate our 30th wedding anniversary. My Grandma Simmons told me June brides are extra special. I don’t know if that is true, but I sure did feel special that day. Certainly, June is a beautiful month for a wedding. Flowers are a part of all weddings and the bridal bouquet is key. 

Rhonda Simmons Ferree wedding party in 1985

Bridal bouquets are made of many different types of flowers and can be real, silk, or a combination of both. Prices depend on many factors such as flower type and season. Not all flowers are available year-round. For example, one of my favorite flowers is the Lily-of-the-Valley. It is not usually available for June weddings, so one of my University of Illinois professors attempted to force some for me. Unfortunately, it did not work properly so I included silk ones in my bouquet. 

Choice and often expensive bridal flowers include eucharis lilies, hybrid and phalaenopsis orchids, camellias, rubrum lilies, lily of the valley, freesia, ivy, and stephanotis. Many of these flowers are fragile, but if prepared properly will last very well in bouquets. Lily-of-the-Valley is wired and taped using a #30-gauge wire wrapped in light green floral tape. Wire and tape help florists control the design of the flower, but in a good bouquet these mechanics will not show. My floral design instructor told us repeatedly to never show our mechanics!

Moderate priced bouquet flowers include roses, hyacinths, fugi mums, ranunculus, gardenias, tuberoses, and stock. Roses are included in most bridal bouquets because it is the flower of love. Inexpensive flowers in a bouquet might include mums, asters, carnations, daisies, and snapdragons. 

Greenery is important in a bouquet too (it hides mechanics). Greenery used in the florist industry includes leatherleaf, sprengeri fern, ivy, salal, and more.

The shape and length of the bridal bouquet varies as well. The bride may choose a round colonial or add a cascade to that. There are also clusters, crescents, and basquettes. Clutch bouquets show the individual flower stems, while the others have all stems wrapped in tape and ribbon. Ribbons add whimsical beauty and sometimes color. 

Flowers can and are used everywhere at a wedding. They are on the altar, candelabras, pews, kneeling benches, cakes, tables, as corsages, and so much more. The flowers normally used include the bride’s bouquet, attendants’ bouquets, corsages, boutonnieres, and floral decorations in the church plus reception decorations. There is no limit to the places where flowers can be used. Palms, ferns, potted plants, candles, ribbons, aisle runners, and baskets are used as well.

If you are planning a wedding in the future, remember the flowers and that anything is possible. Flowers are available in all types and price ranges. Consult your florist for a consultation. A professional florist will help make your day extra special – with flowers!

Originally Published in Canton Ledger Column on 5-30-15

Hawaiian Ti Plant

One plant used widely in floats at this year’s Rose Parade (2003) was the Hawaiian Ti plant. It had many uses in the parade floats and makes a beautiful houseplant too. 

One of my favorite New Year activities is watching the Rose Parade. This year’s parade was spectacular as usual. I watched it on Home and Garden TV, because they gave excellent plant descriptions. At one point, the hosts highlighted the Hawaiian Ti plant – Cordyline terminalis. This plant is also called good-luck plant and dracaena palm, although it is technically not a dracaena. 

Cordyline was used on many floats this year, but I especially liked its use on the Automobile Club of Southern California’s “A Big Adventure,” starring Stuart Little. For those who haven’t seen the Stuart Little 2 movie, in it the little mouse flies an airplane through New York City. On the float Stuart Little's plane was decorated in yellow strawflower and carnation petals with accents of red Ti leaves. Stuart’s jacket was made of maroon Ti leaves. 

The Ti plant is one that brings back visions of visits to my Grandma’s house. Grandma Simmons always had two Hawaiian Ti plants in big plastic, white urns in the living room. Looking back they were actually very scrawny plants, growing in a very dark location, but my Grandma was proud of those plants. Certainly her enthusiasm helped develop my love of plants. 

The Ti is a small palm-like tree with irregularly striped leaves. With the right cultivar grown in the right light conditions, the leaves are quite colorful. The ‘Kiwi’ cultivar has bright creamy-green striped foliage with red edges. ‘Red Sister’ has rich plum and deep burgundy leaves. 

As a houseplant, it can grow 3 to 6 feet tall, but usually is much smaller. This is a very tolerant plant, withstanding many household abuses such as low light, improper water, and fluctuating temperatures. For optimum growth, this plant prefers moderate light of partial shade or diffused light; warm temperatures of 70-80 degrees; and partially dry soil. It can tolerate 50 degrees for short periods. 

If you’d like a plant with bright leaf color, try a Hawaiian Ti. Maybe you could even use a few leaves on a float at a parade this summer!

Originally Published in Canton Ledger Column on 1-11-2003

Test Seed Viability

I recently found some old seed in my office and wondered if they were still viable. If you save leftover seed to use the following year, here are some ways to find out if they are still good. 

Seed viability is a measure of the number of seeds that are still alive to produce plants. Some seeds stay viable for many years, while others might only last a short time. For example, parsley and onion seed only last a year or two, while watermelon and cabbage should last four years or more. Most seed packets are dated so you know how old they are. 

The best way to see if your seed is still viable is to do a germination test following these steps. 

1. Place 10 seeds on a slightly damp paper towel. If the towel is too wet, the seeds will rot. 
2. Roll up or fold the paper towel and place it in a closed plastic bag to keep it from drying out. Use a permanent market to record the date and type of seed on the outside of the bag. Also, note the average germination times listed on the seed packet.  
3. Leave it in a warm place (above 70 degrees) for a few days. Although light isn’t a major factor for most seeds, a warm windowsill often works well. The top of the refrigerator is another good location. 
4. Based on the average germination time listed on the seed packet, check the seeds in a few days to see how many seeds have started to grow. If you don’t know the average germination rate, check them in 7-10 days. You might be able to see them through the paper towel. Often the roots begin growing first. 
5. Once they’ve begun to germinate, carefully remove the paper towel wrapped seeds from the bag. Then, unroll the paper to see how many seeds have sprouted. 

The germination test will show you the percentage of those seeds that are still alive. If only half of the seeds germinated in the paper towel, it is likely that only half will grow in your garden. If the germination rate is 70-90 percent, you should sow them a little thicker than normal in the garden. If less than 70 percent germinate, it might be better to buy new seed. 

You can plant the sprouted seeds in the garden or in a container. Since the root often grows into the paper towel, cut or tear around the seeds then plant the seeds, towel, and all. 

Larger seeds can also be tested using a water method. Place peas, beans, and corn in a bowl of water. If they sink, they're fine. If they float, toss them.

Seeds last longer when they are stored in a cool, dry place. In the winter, a cool basement or garage that doesn’t freeze works well. In the summer, a cool room or refrigerator will keep them at the right temperature and humidity level. 

Click on this factsheet link from Colorado State University Extension for more information on Storing Vegetable and Flower Seeds.

Originally Published in Canton Ledger Column on 2-4-17

Air Plants Are Easy to Grow

On a recent trip to Ft. Myers, Florida (March 2016) I visited the Edison & Ford Winter Estates where I toured their homes, gardens, laboratories, and museum. The plant collections there are fascinating, especially all the rubber trees they tested as possible sources for tire materials. 

Obviously, Edison is most famous for inventing the light bulb, so I took advantage of that by purchasing a small terrarium-type hanging planter shaped like a light bulb. Inside is an air plant sitting in sphagnum moss. It hangs above my kitchen window, and I love looking at it every day. 

Air plants, also known as Tillandsia, are interesting plants in the Bromeliad family. All bromeliads are epiphytes, which mean that they use something else for support. Therefore, in nature the plants use their root systems to grow harmlessly on trees and rocks. Instead of using their roots to get water and nutrients from soil, they acquire them from the air and rain through their leaves. 

To keep air plants healthy and happy, simply provide them with three ingredients - sun, water, and air circulation. 

First, light is needed in the form of filtered, not direct, sunlight through a south, east, or west window. During the summer you can hang them outside in a tree or other protected location. 

Second, the key to growing Tillandsia is proper watering. I like to mist mine every few days to keep the sphagnum moss substrate moist, yet let the plant dry out slightly between watering. If the leaves curl or roll, they are too dry. To revive them, submerge the plant in water overnight and shake away any excess water before returning it to its display location. 

Third, good air circulation helps the plant dry out some between watering and prevents diseases. Air plants grow well displayed in terrariums, which are clear glass or plastic containers filled with small plants. 

Often terrariums are tightly closed, but my light-bulb shaped container has one side completely open to help with air circulation. Air plants are simple to grow and can be displayed in many ways. 

Originally Published in Canton Ledger Column on 3-5-16

Preserving Flowers

As you plan your summer gardens, consider adding flowers you can preserve or use in arrangements. The pleasure of growing flowers in a garden is only a portion of gardening enjoyment. Flowers and foliage that is gathered from the garden and preserved or arranged can reward you in many other ways. 

Cutting gardens include flowers that cut well and are long-lasting. Sturdy stems and long-lasting qualities make many plants good choices for cutting flowers. Floral arrangements make superb gifts and are a wonderful way to bring your garden into your home. Flowers that make good cut flowers include yarrow, zinnia, snapdragon, sunflower, and cosmos just to name a few. Many seed companies offer premixed cutting garden seeds. 

dried mums and sunflowers

You can also preserve flowers and foliage for many years by including them in wreaths, arrangements, potpourri, and gifts. Preservation methods include hanging and pressing plants, or using various drying agents.

Hanging or air-drying is the easiest and best method for preserving most flowers. If you have a garden, you have the beginnings for dried plant material. Many annuals, perennials, grasses, and foliage can be preserved easily at home. Dried flowers can add an expensive-looking decorating touch to your home at almost no cost. Flowers that air-dry well are Strawflowers, golden rod, hydrangea, celosia, Queen Anne's lace, statice, baby's breath, globe amaranth, salvia, yarrow and ornamental grasses such as bamboo, cattail, oats, sorghum, timothy, and millet.

dried roses

Pressing flowers is another easy method; however, it distorts the shape and flattens the flowers. The advantage of pressed flowers is that they can be easily mounted and framed. Use these flowers for pressing: Asters, bleeding heart, buttercups, chrysanthemums, columbine, cosmos, dahlia, dogwood, English daisy, geranium, larkspur, lily of the valley, marigold, pansies, poppies, sweet peas, violets, and zinnia. Avoid heavy, fleshy flowers such as hybrid tea roses.

Learn more about Preserving Flowers, with University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator, Alicia Kallal. In this YouTube program, Alicia teaches several techniques you can use at home to preserve flowers and foliage for long-term enjoyment.   

The beauty of a flower in bloom is a fleeting pleasure. To extend their beauty, consider adding flowers to your garden this year that preserve easily. 

Originally Published in Canton Ledger Column on 5-5-18

Philodendron or Pothos

I am so fortunate that I had opportunities during this cold, snowy winter to visit two tropical locations. I went to Costa Rica in December to pick up my son from his semester of studying abroad and I just returned from my husband’s employee reward trip to the Dominican Republic. 

Obviously, I enjoyed the warm, sunny weather in both locations, but I also love seeing the tropical plants there. Many native plants there are ones that we grow here as houseplants. 

pothos on left and philodendron on right

Two that always impress me in their native habitat are philodendron and pothos. Many houseplants are referred to as philodendron, but most are probably pothos. Both are vining plants with green leaves, but they are quite different. Let me try to explain. 

Philodendrons are groups of tropical plants with variously shaped and colored leaves. Most people grow the heartleaf philodendron (Philodendron scandens subsp. oxycardium). This is a rapidly growing vine plant. It has familiar heart-shaped, dark green leaves on slender, flexible vines. This plant grows rapidly. All philodendrons are popular because they tolerate very low light and variable temperatures.

Pothos are quite different plants. The pothos (also called Devil’s Ivy) is also a tropical vine. The difference is that it has crisp, shiny leaves with gold, white, or yellow markings. The most common pothos is the silver pothos (Epipremnum aureum ‘Marble Queen’). It has smooth, waxy leaves variegated with white, especially when young. Pothos need a bit more light and warmer temperatures than philodendrons. In fact, pothos need higher lights levels to develop good leaf markings and variegation.

Both plants do something extraordinary when grown in their preferred tropical environment. They can produce both juvenile and adult leaves. Typically, we only see the juvenile leaves in our home environments. Adult leaves are larger and sometime shaped differently than the juvenile leaves. You’ll see the larger adult leaves at the top of the vining plant once it reaches a certain height. 

These plants are listed as two of the top best plants to clean indoor air. Research done by NASA in the late 1980’s found that several houseplants remove common indoor pollutants such as those found in carpets, furniture, building materials, and cleaning products. The study recommends having at least 15 air cleaning houseplants for the average 2,000 square foot home. 

Do you have pothos and philodendron growing in your house? If not, find a friend who does and have them propagate one for you.

Originally Published in Canton Ledger Column on 2-22-2014 

Poisonous Houseplants

Our family recently (November 2004) added two new puppies to the household. They are seven-week-old Chihuahuas and quite lively, not to mention entertaining. Like most “toddlers” they tend to get into everything and chew on everything but the chew toys. I’ve had to “baby proof” my house all over again, including taking a good look at the houseplants to assure poisonous ones are not within reach. 

Unfortunately, there are a few houseplants that are quite poisonous to humans and/or animals. Remember that there are three routes of exposure for poisoning: through the skin, inhaling through the nose, or eating. I’ll focus only on stomach poisons here that are a problem if eaten. With stomach poisons it is important to remember “the dose makes the poison.” In other words, an amount that won’t hurt a large dog might kill a small one. 

Dumbcane (Dieffenbachia sp.)

There are several houseplants that contain calcium oxalate, a chemical that causes severe burning and tongue swelling. Examples of plants with this chemical include dumbcane (Dieffenbachia sp.), heartleaf philodendron (Philodendron cordata), anthurium, caladium, Swiss cheese plant (Monstera deliciosa), spathiphyllum, arrowhead vine (Syngonium podophyllum), and devils ivy or pothos (Epipremnum aureum). Most of these plants cause painful and immediate swelling of the mouth and throat after chewing on plant tissue. Speech impediment can occur, sometimes lasting for several days.

Some plants contain latex type juices. Examples include aloe and poinsettia. Ingestion of the latex can cause a cathartic (purging) reaction by irritating the large intestine. The actual toxins in poinsettia are unknown, although it is no longer classified as extremely toxic. Reactions to poinsettia for humans range from dermatitis to nausea and vomiting. 

During the holiday season, also beware of toxic holiday plants. Holly berries (Ilex species) can induce vomiting, diarrhea and stupor. Holly foliage (Hedera helix) berries contain saponins, which can cause a burning sensation in the throat and gastronomical upset with vomiting and diarrhea. Jerusalem Cherry (Solanum pseudocapsicum) fruit or foliage should not be eaten. 

Mistletoe (Phoradendron species) berries may result in vomiting, diarrhea and moderate stomach and intestinal pain.  In severe cases there may be labored breathing, dramatically lowered blood pressure, and heart failure.

Please don’t despair. There are many houseplants and decorations that are not toxic. Example of nontoxic houseplants include African violet, baby tears, Boston fern, coleus, Christmas cactus, dracaena, jade, palm, pepperomia, prayer plant, sansevieria (Mother-in-Laws Tongue), schefflera, spider plant, Swedish ivy, wandering Jew, and zebra plant. 

Keep the toxic plants out of the reach of pets and children!

Originally Published in Canton Ledger Column on November 13, 2004