A Hellish Night in Shawnee National Forest

Gunshots rang through the cool, rainy, dark campground and I felt paralyzed within my already vulnerable and confining sleeping bag and tent. My fear had been growing over the past hour as shouts of apparent anger from another campsite grew ever louder and more intense. I had already began preparing for my escape if it was needed. When I heard the gunshots, I knew it was time. 

I was camping at Bell Smith Spring Recreation Area’s Redbud campground in Southern Illinois’ Shawnee National Forest. Mark and I had checked out this campground many times when hiking there and I decided my solo trek back to Havana was a perfect time to try it. I was on my way back from Nags Head, North Carolina where I’d dropped off Mark to start his month-long motorcycle adventure on the Trans America Trail (TAT).

I arrived early on Wednesday, June 7, 2023, and quickly set up camp in site #12. I was sitting in my chair eating grapes and cheese when a breeze picked up and it looked like rain. I got my chair pushed inside the truck bed tent just as it started to rain. Inside, I comfortably sat in my chair, listened to music, and continued writing my book on my laptop. 

Camping at Bell Smith Springs Redbud Campground

Inside tent

Later the rain let up, so I went for a hike, lit a campfire, made a simple supper, and enjoyed my peaceful evening in the forest. I had just put everything away for the night when it started raining again. I was glad I took down the clothesline. The only things still out were the firewood inside a small tarp and Mark’s heavy motorcycle ramp, that I’d need when I retrieved him in Oregon in 30-some days. It was pouring rain, but I was nice and dry inside. 

Hiking along spicebush and broad beech fern on the Jay Gap trail at Bell Smith Springs Recreation Area. 

I fell asleep watching a movie I’d downloaded on my iPad and woke up in a confused state at about midnight. It was still raining. I tried to go back to sleep but couldn’t. I kept hearing noises around me. I told myself it was a small animal, or the movie noise, or the rain in the trees. It was hard to tell with the rain just what the sounds were. 

Soon I heard yelling and screaming. I turned off all my devices and listened with a tight chest and quickening heart. All kinds of scenarios ran through my mind, but mainly they were about what wacked out people might do in the rain and dark. It was VERY dark. I grabbed the truck bed-retrieving stick and bear spray for defense, though not sure how I’d use them, and began thinking of a plan to escape if needed. 

Then I heard two gunshots and knew I had to get out of that tent. I put on my hiking boots, grabbed a small flashlight and my phone (with no signal) and stepped outside in the rain – less intense but still raining. I had on pocketless sweatpants and a sweatshirt, so tried to tuck my items into my underwear. I briefly thought about hiding in the woods, but it was cold and wet and hours until daylight. 

Then I heard more shots and made a move. I had positioned the truck on the campsite sideways and had Mark’s big cycle ramp and the firewood under the tailgate on the ground. As quietly as I could I dragged the heavy ramp away from the truck so I could back it up and maneuver out of there. I left the tent up in the back of the truck with everything inside, the tailgate step and lift pole out, and drove away slowly, going in the wrong direction down the one-way road out of camp to avoid the scary campers. I didn’t see anyone in the dark campground on my way out. I drove slowly down the gravel road away from potential danger and started to feel safer and better. At the turnoff to the other parking area, I pulled over – a safe distance from the crazies - and moved my suitcase and backpack to the cab of the truck. Everything else I laid down and left in the tent, then undid the tent straps from the truck and loosened the tent poles to partially collapse them. I just stuffed it all haphazardly into the truck bed and pulled the tonneau cover over it all, closing the tailgate. 

In the dark and rain, at 1:30 a.m., I drove slowly down the rough gravel, narrow Shawnee forest roads. I saw many deer, opossum, and racoons. One small buck stood in the road a few moments before letting me pass. I kept watching the cell signal but there was none. Back out on Rt. 145 I drove south to find a town – Eddyville I think. I had cell service there, so called 911 and got emotional with the sheriff. He said he’d send a deputy out since shots were fired and told me where a hotel was in Harrisburg, about 15 miles north. The Super8 night clerk there was very nice but new and took forever to get me a room. I restlessly slept a few hours, got up at 6:30 a.m., showered, had breakfast, then pondered who to call for advice. Should I go back for the $300 ramp or just go home and try to find a replacement. Mark was camping somewhere without cell service, so I texted my sister, then called our son Derek, who said without hesitation to go get the ramp. I rearranged the truck bed at the hotel to allow room when I got there for a quick recovery. 

In the clear, calm light of day, on the way back to camp, I could feel my confidence and courage building, but I was still apprehensive. As I drove off Rt. 145 deeper into the forest, I could feel the trees sending me positive vibes. They seemed to tell me that it wasn’t their fault and they supported me, and I’d be okay. Stupid people are not a reason to fear nature. Adding to my courage, Mark called me just as I turned onto the Bell Smith Springs Road. I pulled over to tell him my story, then proceeded back to the scene with him on the line, but I lost him as I backed into the space to retrieve my items. 

As I walked to my truck after retrieving the ramp and firewood, I almost went back for a black feather that I’d found when I arrived the day before. Someone had stuck it into the stump of a pine tree, and it had seemed either a bit omen or a bit prophetic at the time. A nearby campsite had a voodoo-like thing hanging in a tree, and I wondered what type of people camp in Redbud campground. Had someone hexed the site, or did they leave it as a positive sign to the next camper? During by travels I had been listening to the audiobook “Wild” by Cheryl Strayed where she describes in the Corvidology chapter about how a black feather is a symbol of the void and beginning again. I did not take the feather with me, but I do think it was a sign and helped pull me out of the dark void of that moment to be proactive for my safety. It did change me. I’ve always known I’m strong, but I feel it deeper now. I also know I won’t put myself in that situation again. Next time I’ll camp in a state park by elderly, retired, peaceful folks. 

As I drove away, I felt proud of my confidence and courage, and was glad I hadn’t paid yet since I didn’t stay even one whole night. It wasn’t until I was about 100 miles north on my way home that the intensity of my relief set in. I wasn’t the vulnerable girl taught to fear every situation and person. I was a strong woman who took control of her situation and provided for her own safety. I had used my training and experiences to circumvent the situation and feel safe. 

It was about then that it also occurred to me that maybe the people weren’t wild-eyed, drug induced, crazy people, but rather ordinary campers frustrated with pesky coons that ravage and scavenge every camp I’ve ever visited. Maybe they were yelling at the coons to go away and maybe they got so frustrated that they finally shot at them. I sure hope they got the SOBs. 

Unloading haphazardly loaded truck at home.

This beautiful wisteria greeted me when I got home.

Finding Magic at the 1st Annual Bend Yoga Festival

I wanted to do the Bend Yoga Festival the first time I heard about it in our Body, Mind, and Soul (BMS) Studio. Oregon is an amazing location for an outdoor yoga festival, and I would meet studio members face to face, including our inspirational leader Allie Van Fossen and her assistant Jess. This festival spoke to me, and Mark got on board immediately. We added an excursion at the beginning of the trip to the Redwoods and Crater Lake National Parks and booked the trip almost immediately (watch for articles on visiting the Redwoods and Crater Lake). 

As is usually the case, as the time got closer, I felt increasingly nervous and a bit unworthy. The day before the festival began, I was particularly nervous. I was anxious and wondered if I really belonged in this group. Yet, deep down my inner mentor kept reassuring me that I belonged and had a right to be there. 

It helped meeting the BMS family prior to the festival opening. I had a great time meeting Allie and the studio family members Friday night. We met at Bend Brewing Company for conversation over local beer and food. Met Jess, Heather, Veronica, and so many more. The next morning, I met some fellow studio members on my way into the festival, so we spread our yoga mats out together.  

Figure 1. Body, Mind, and Soul Studio Members meet in person.

Each festival attendee was given a gift bag with an astrological calendar, then we set an intention for the festival by dropping a rose petal in water. My intention was to relax, enjoy, connect, and “Find the Magic.” The opening session was a “Community Ritual and Welcome Ceremony” by Sianna Sherman and Masood Ali Khan. It was challenging with some intense asanas and included some great music. I really enjoyed the class. 

Figure 2. Waiting on the first session of the 2022 Bend Yoga Festival.

The sun was so strong both days. The first day, I was there from 8:30 a.m. to 5:00 p.m., mostly in the full sun. I tried to put on suntan lotion, but I couldn’t reach it all. I burned bad in those spots on my back that are usually covered. The second day we all tried to stay in the shade when possible, and I took more coverups. It was cool in the morning, so my planned layers worked very well (watch for article on trip planning).

The festival is a nice mix of yoga and other health-related classes. I particularly enjoyed the interesting class on “Anti-inflammatory Living” with Dr. Emily Wolbers of QC Natural Health. My takeaway was to eat more Omega 3 fish, less of the nightshades, peanuts, corn, and citrus. I decided to redo my food sensitivity test and learned that meditation tools really help with inflammation and anxiety. (Note: I later went to Dr. Wolber’s medical practice in Moline, IL for the food sensitivity test. I learned a lot from her and she gave me some supplements that have helped.) I also did a session on “Ayurveda: Ancient Solutions to Modern Problems” by Suzie Newcome. 

Mark and I both enjoyed Bend, Oregon. He spent his days hiking at Smith Rock State Park and white-water rafting on the Deschutes River with Sun Country Tours. We met each evening at the hotel and enjoyed local food and drink. My favorite was falafel salad and hazy IPA beer sitting outside at the Cascades Lakes Brewpub near our hotel.

Allie’s two sessions gave me the best take home messages. Her “Awaken the Chakra System” session was after the opening asana on the first day. We all moved closer to her, and she did an amazing job. She taught using the chakras in a very slow, peaceful, reflective way. I got choked up when she had us punch out – “I can, and I will.” So powerful as I looked at the snowcapped mountains and the clear blue sky. Evergreens surrounded the skyline park fields. Allie asked us to reflect on which chakra we needed to work on most, and here is what I wrote. 

I think it’s my throat chakra. I want to speak freely, without reservation or regrets. I want to freely self-express. A balanced throat is at peace, truthful, listens, communicates well, and has strong self-expression. I’ll work more on this area. I just need to be myself. I’m not a young yogi like most of them. I am timider and more introverted, but I still do it. I still feel the magic. 

 Figure 3. Allie Van Fossen teaches the Chakras, with assistance from Jess.

Her closing session helped me reflect on how much the festival meant to me. She walked us through the Five Koshas and had us reflect on how the festival helped us open each sheath. 

Annamayakosha - Physical body...I felt most connected, safest, strongest, most secure in my physical body during the conscious dance session. I felt free to move and act in whatever way felt right at that moment. I was me – without worry or distraction. It was freeing and fun. 

“Conscious Dance...A SoundoffTM Experience” was my third festival session, and I was blown away. We wore headphones and our instructor Petit Davina played music while providing some guidance. I danced all around and got into the music very well. Not sure how I looked doing it, but it didn’t matter at all. This was a fun class. Something totally new for me that I never imagined doing. (Note: Over the year, the festival has posted short video clips on their BendYogaFestival Instagram Page, and I saw myself dance on one. I looked great!)

Figure 4. Me (in blue cap) dancing, see full video on Vimeo.

Pranymaykosha – Energy Body...My energy was flowing freely in today’s asana session. I was comfortable and although we laughed that we couldn’t do it all, we tried. I flowed to the music and her instructions with my community all around me. 

The “Rasa Yoga” session by Masood Ali Khan and Sianna Sherman on the second day was fun and challenging. It included great music and mudras. Part of the session was done with a partner. My partner, another BMS studio member, and I laughed and laughed as we tried to get our bodies to mirror the instructors.  

Manomayakosha – Psycho-Emotional Body...I feel calmest and clearest right now during this closing session. I feel I belong and I’m on the right path. I can do hard things. I need to do hard things. I know now that I’ll do more. 

Allie’s “Closing Meditation and Ceremony” was especially spiritual because she moved it under shady trees, and I was surrounded by my new friends and BMS family members. The smaller crowd allowed us time to each share our take-home intention for the festival (see below). I was so moved that I didn’t want it to end.

Vijnanamayakosa - Wisdom body...My wisdom body was online and present during the sunrise meditation today. I felt connected to the people around me, the place, the music, the instructor, and to myself. I felt at peace and know my life is on the right path. There is more to do and I’m excited to see what that is. 

I had a great second morning at the festival. The “Sunrise Meditation” by Alexandra Lyon at 8 a.m. was very moving. 

Anandamayakosha - Bliss body...I had a blissful moment during Allie’s chakra session. I looked up to see a hawk fly over, the blue sky, white capped mountain, sun & wind. All the elements were present, and I felt whole and one with the world. 

Festival Closing Intention...Act now to open my throat chakra. I know now that I do belong, and I can do hard things. “I will open my voice to express myself freely and fully.” 

My journal entry at the end of the festival gives me insight into my future. 

Overall, I’m so glad I came. It was hard but I was able to push away the fear and find the courage to move on. Without that drive I’d miss so much that I want to do. I do see my life starting to move toward something new. I feel it is something to protect and/or help properly manage the earth. I’m not giving up the writing dream, but I just don’t feel it anymore. I want to volunteer at a park or help at a yoga place. I could even volunteer at Shoshoni or a similar place. I can help others find their true selves and feel more connected to our Earth. (Note: Over the next year I began to realize that writing is part of this change in my life. I write extensively about travel and connecting to nature and earth through plants, hoping it will help others find that connection too.)

I walked out of the festival feeling bliss and knowing that I met my initial intention. I found the magic of the festival in the people, music, surroundings, and practices. Best yet, I continue to build on what I learned there, both on and off the mat. I highly recommend this festival and know that attendees at the 2nd Annual Bend Yoga Festival will find the magic too. 

Note: The First Annual Bend Yoga Festival was held on June 25-26, 2022 at Skyline Park. 

Solitude and Adventure in Silverton, Colorado

Sitting at the saloon bar having a root beer and soup, we listened to the piano player, watched other patrons come and go through the swinging door, and felt like we were in an episode of Gunsmoke. Later we sat on a rooftop bar, drank Moscow mules out of copper mugs, and watched the steam engine train depart for Durango. 

This was one of many stops on our 2016 motorcycle group ride. Views of the mountains were all around us, and we knew that this was a special place we needed to experience again. So, when Bigger Life Adventures offered a yoga retreat in Silverton, Colorado in 2022 (see yoga retreat blog), I jumped at the opportunity. We hoped to experience that old west feeling again, ride the Durango train, and spend some quality time in the mountains. 

Molas Lake Campground and Nearby Trails
We made Silverton part of our fall camping trip of 2022. After spending several days in the Great Basin National Park (see blog), our home base for Silverton, Colorado was Molas Lake Park & Campground. Owned by the town of Silverton, this 237-acre campground sits along the Million Dollar Highway (US 550) in the central San Juan Mountains. At 10,500 ft elevation, the campground and its 25-acre natural alpine lake provide spectacular views of the Rocky Mountains peaks all around. We stayed in site #57 in the large gravel area. It didn’t have a view of the lake, but it was private, spacious, and comfortable. 

Figure 1. Molas Lake Park & Campground.

During our stay at Molas Lake, Mark and I did separate adventures: me at the yoga retreat in Silverton and Mark riding his Triumph Tiger on nearby mountain passes. Together we explored the area hiking trails and a few natural areas. 

Figure 2. Campsite at Molas Lake.

There is much to see right at camp, and it is a popular destination for fishermen, kayakers, and hikers. As we walked around camp, I found many interesting plants, including potentilla, fireweed, oxeye daisy, and flax. Above at the Molas Lake Overlook there was a cutleaf daisy. 

Figure 3. Enjoying views from across Molas Lake. 

Figure 4. Potentilla shrub

Figure 5. Fireweed (Chamaenerion angustifolium).

Figure 6. Blue flax (Linum sp.)

Figure 7. Oxeye daisy (Leucanthemum vulgare).

Figure 8. Molas Lake Overlook.

Figure 9. Cutleaf Daisy (Erigeron compositus) at Molas Lake Overlook.

Exploring out from the campground, we hiked the Molas Lake Loop – an easy 2 mile walk above and down to Molas Lake. It very briefly follows the Colorado trail – a 486-mile backpacking trail from Denver to Durango. We started the Molas Lake loop at our camper and followed it across meadows and into small aspen groves. All along were very nice evergreens sprinkled throughout the landscape. 

Figure 10. Molas Lake trail.

Across the Million Dollar Highway from camp, Little Molas Lake has another hiking trail. We hiked it on a misty, rainy day. It is an easy hike around the little lake, meandering close to the lake through trees, grasses, and wetland spots.   

Figure 11. Little Molas Lake.

Mineral Springs Creek Near Silverton, CO
Separately, Mark and I had been by the South Mineral Springs Campground area on our solo adventures: me to hike the Ice Lakes trail and Mark riding near Red Mountain pass. Together we chose a spot along the creek near some dispersed campsites to relax and enjoy an afternoon.

Here is my journal entry that day. 

Sitting in lawn chairs along Mineral Springs Creek. The sun is warm in the 60-degree air. There is less breeze down here by the water. I am surrounded by mountains. Beyond the creek is a steep range covered in evergreens – tall spires of Christmas green, probably spruce or Douglas fir. Across the meadow behind me is another range with sparser vegetation of evergreens speckled with lighter colored and textured aspen, many in full yellow fall splendor. To the west, peaking between those two ranges is a conical spire of sage green vegetation terraced by steep black rock. Back there is where I hiked to Ice Lake, just one week ago. The sky is cobalt blue with bright white fluffy clouds slowly gliding across the sky. 

The creek in front of me is crystal clear, flowing quickly across the shallow stone lined streambed. The water glistens and sparkles in the sunshine as it ripples around the rocks. Darker, calm areas alternate between the ripples. The sound of the falling water is pure peace. We came to the mountains to find peace and serenity in one of nature’s purest places. We found it. I am calm. I am happy. I am one with earth’s spirit. Thank you, plants, rocks, soil, water, trees, grasses, flies, butterflies, bees, logs – everything – for your presence here. I send you all my love and life. Vibrations of life are strong here. We are all alive here together. 

Figure 12. Journaling along Mineral Springs Creek.

Durango-Silverton Train Ride

Today we rode the steam engine train from Durango to cascade canyon. The first part through the towns wasn’t great but the run into the mountains was spectacular. We sat on Gondola #31, seats 9 & 10. A nice day in the open-air car. The train went past canyons above and next to the Animas River. So pretty. We were only at the canyon long enough to eat lunch and walk a bit. A pretty spot. We sat on a rock by the river and ate the box lunches we ordered with our trip: me a beet veggie sandwich and Mark a chicken salad BLT. 

It was fun to watch the landscape as we chugged along on the train. Vast expanses of green mountains behind alpine lakes. Below us a raging stream with occasionally waterfalls flowed quickly past us, slowly cutting the canyon deeper. We saw flowering aspen, sunflowers, narrowleaf cottonwood, pine, spruce, and many flowering plants too far away to identify properly. 

Figure 13. Steam Engine train rounding a bend above the Animas River.

Figure 14. We saw a deer from the train. 

Figure 15. Plants growing in rocks along train.

Figure 16. Ponderosa pine along train.

Figure 17. Mark enjoying lunch stop.

Figure 18. View on way back to Durango.

Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park

During the 2016 Colorado Moto group ride we also briefly visited the Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park. However, it was raining that day and we were only there a few minutes. Wow, after going back and spending more time, we realized how much we had missed that day. 

Here is my journal entry that day. 

Had another great day. Rode the Tiger to the Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park. It was very cold when we started (low 40s, though we were fine in our heated riding gear). The ride to Ouray on the Million Dollar highway was spectacular. It was overcast most of the way and misted on us a few times. The road hugs the stone canyon wall on one side and drops off sharply into the deep canyon on the other side. There are many switchbacks and pigtails and curve after curve twists around the mountain. The views around each curve emerge like a picture in a coffee table picture book. So many greens, and blues, and grays. Occasionally the raging river below was visible – always rushing over and around the rocks and boulders. 

Figure 19. Video of us riding the Million Dollar Highway.

We stopped for a coffee break and warm up in Montrose, then rode on to the Canyon’s visitor center, but they were about to close for lunch. We walked down to the Gunnison Point lookout. We’d been there before during our Colorado moto group ride in 2016. However, we only got a quick look that day and left due to rain. This time we were able to stay longer and really get the feeling of the place. 

We rode all the way to the end of the south rim road and had a snack at High Point. We walked to the viewpoints at Dragon Point, Painted wall view, Chasm view, and Pulpit Rock overlook. Black Canyon is hard to describe. In many places it is like a mirage of stone – we see the river at the bottom but can’t find where it turns into the canyon. The mostly black canyons have bands of lighter hardened magna in them, creating shapes like dragons. I even saw a face of a Gollum-like creature. Sheer cliffs facing south were all rock, at least from a distance. Because they face south, the snow melts and there is less freeze-thaw cracking in the rocks. The other side is more sloping and vegetated. Banks of trees run down the cliffs, in places, from their flat home at the top.

Back at the visitors center we bought our usual souvenirs then headed back to Silverton. We stopped in Ouray for a break to have a beer. That was just what we needed. As we climbed the Million Dollar highway back to Molas Lake campground, the temperatures continued to drop. 

Figure 20. River flowing below the canyon walls at The Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park.

Figure 21. Gollum-like fissure in the rock.

Figure 22. Old wind-shaped tree atop the Black Canyon.

Figure 23. Signage about plants in the canyon.

Figure 24. Plants along trail to a canyon lookout, including sagebrush and aster.

Figure 25. Rocky face vs. greener slope.

Going Home

Left camp this morning to start our drive home. We both hated to leave. Other than it being so cold there, it was such a beautiful location. We woke up each morning to sunrise over the mountain peaks, then walked to the lake for another epic view. We’ll miss it. 

Figure 26. View of sunset from our camper.

We did what we set out to do in this location. We experienced the old west feeling again and rode the Durango train. But mostly, we spent some quality time in the mountains and connected even deeper to nature’s beauty and power all around us. Adventure! Solitude! Togetherness! Silverton lived up to its expectations and more.

Chasing Wildflower Super Blooms

I feel a deep longing to sit amongst the wildflowers, to see them sway in the breeze, smell the earth, and feel their magical vibes. Ever since I was a little girl, I dreamed of dancing in a flower filled meadow. Would this be the trip when I finally live this dream? 

We are on our annual trip to California to see our son and explore places we love. For me, this is also a journey to find wildflowers, to receive Earth’s gift of peace, joy, and beauty. On our drive from Illinois to California, I travel across brown and gray Kansas knowing that if I could get closer – hugging distance – to the land, I’d see the colors emerge, hidden to the casual passerby. They are gifts only to those chosen few who have a connection to the land, who want and need to explore beyond the highway and experience nature deeper. For that, Nature gives us the gift of beauty and color. As we drive through a Kansas town, purple blooming henbit teases me of what is to come. 

We stop along the way at our cousins in Albuquerque, the Petrified Forest, and the snowy Grand Canyon. Wildflowers begin to emerge as we cross into California at Needles, AZ – small patches of orange scattered in the green hills. Recent rains explode the normally dead-looking, ocotillo with little green leaves all along their stems. Lots of yellow sunflowers and other plants grow along the road too. 

I start to get choked up about Santa Clarita, California. Poppies! So many poppies and lupines in the moist, green hillsides, surrounded by the snow-covered San Bernadino mountains beyond. The green hills light up with orange, yellow, purple, and white wildflowers. Patches of fluorescent orange poppies glow in the distance. Even surrounded by cars in this mostly urban environment, I feel the super bloom excitement begin to build within my soul. Like the California drought, my poppy disappointment drought of missing the last super bloom in 2019 and just missing normal poppy blooms the past couple of years is finally going to end. As a bonus, the Joshua trees bloom all along the way to Santa Barbara. 

Santa Barbara Botanic Gardens

My first view of masses of poppies are at the Santa Barbara Botanic gardens. I stand in the masses of California Poppies (Eschscholzia californica), Blue Eyed Grass (Sisyrinchium bellum), and California Goldenrod (Solidago californica) with mountains in the background under a bright blue sky. Orange patches seem to flow in vast waves all the way to the mountains.

Figure 1. Santa Barbara Botanical Garden poppy meadow.

Other blooms making a statement in the garden include coral bells, Oregon grape holly, and a pink flowering currant. 

Figure 2. Wendy Coral Bells (Heuchera ‘Wendy’) at the Santa Barbara Botanical Garden.

Across the street we explore down the narrow path to view the Channel Islands. All along the path are plants from the islands, including the giant coreopsis (Leptosyne gigantea), Island bush poppy (Dendromecon hardfordii), lupine, and Guadalupe Island senecio (Senecio palmeri). 

Figure 3. Giant coreopsis and Island bush poppy at the Santa Barbara Botanical Garden.

The most interesting plant of the day is the sugar bush (Rhus ovata) – bright white and red berry clusters above big glossy green leaves.  

Figure 4. Sugar bush at the Santa Barbara Botanical Garden.

Nearby, we visit Tyler’s girlfriend Becca at the Santa Barbara Museum of Natural History where she works. In their Sukinanik'oy Garden of Chumash Plants are more than 150 species of wild native plants used by the Chumash people for food, medicine, clothing, shelter, basketry, and tools. Making a statement on this day are a mature, majestic coast live oak tree (Quercus agrifolia), bright blue California lilac (Ceanothus sp.), and white sage (Salvia apiana).

Figure 5. California lilac (Ceanothus sp.) at the Santa Barbara Natural History Museum. The Chumash rubbed the flowers with water to make a fragrant soapy lather for washing.

Figure 6. Coast Live Oak at the Santa Barbara Museum of Natural History.

Flowers by Land (Car) and Sea (Boat)

The California landscape reveals itself to me in various stages and methods during my visit. While on a whale watching boat ride, we see the pretty shoreline, rocky with patches of green and yellow. The water is an aqua blue around our catamaran sailboat. We see seals, but no whales on this trip. Still, it is a beautiful ride along the Santa Barbara coast. 

One spot is especially interesting, so we go back to it by car. There I see a hillside covered in yellow coastal bush sunflowers, also called California brittlebush (Encelia californica). The hillside is adjacent to the Arroyo Burro Beach and Hendrys restaurant. A stone walkway coils up one side a bit for a better view of the beach. We go back there another day for a wonderful breakfast at Hendrys. 

Figure 7. California brittlebush on the hillside adjacent to the Arroyo Burro Beach.

I am so determined to see a superbloom that I join several social media groups that post pictures and locations of where to find the flowers. They mention Figuero Mountain many times, so we drive there to see the wildflower displays, but the road is under construction. We see a few small patches of wild mustard and lupines, but few poppies. We do go by the gates of Michael Jackson’s Neverland, with a colorful pansy display. Later, we hike to the Nojoqui waterfall. I can feel the water spray on my face as I get close. The falls are quite impressive after all the rains.  

Figure 8. Pansy displays at the entrance to Neverland along Figueroa Mountain road.

Figure 9. Nojoqui waterfall.

We also see patches here and there of yellow, orange, and purple on our way to Solvang and the Santa Ynez Valley wineries. The drive through the rolling hills of green in the Santa Ynez mountains is breathtaking, even without flower blooms. Often set next to the ocean, it reminds me of landing in Scotland or of what Ireland must look like. At Beckmen Vineyards we see olive trees in bloom, purple wisteria blossoms, and legume cover crops blooming between the many grape vines. The Fess Parker winery is our main destination. I love it there. From my comfortable patio seat, I have a view of an open grass areas and large oak trees surrounding us. Beyond that are hills of green all around us. I know there must be poppies out there somewhere. The wines there are good, and they take their time with their generous pours. A folksy band adds good music to the experience, making for a peaceful, pretty, and joyful day.  

Figure 10. Fess Parker grapevines with cover crops between the rows.

On the way home we eat way too much at A.J. Spurs in Buellton, then stop at a vista point overlooking the Santa Ynez valley, where the green hills below and beyond look like a painting.

Figure 11. Santa Ynez valley vista point.

Carrizo Plains

My first glimpse at a super bloom is in the Carrizo Plains. Fluorescent patches of orange, yellow, blue, and purple fill the hills of green all around us. The Carrizo Plain National Monument is in the high desert near New Cuyama. We stop there at the Buckhorn restaurant for lunch before venturing out to see the wildflowers. I love that restaurant. Mostly sourced by local farms, the freshly made food is very yummy. 

The Plains are not at peak bloom, but they are still outstanding. The Plains are located between two mountain ranges, along the San Andreas Faultline. As we enter the valley, the hills on each side are covered in masses of fluorescent yellow and purple. Mark drives along Soda Lake Road, and I keep jumping out of the backseat to take pictures. A local lady stops us to warn us to stay on the main road due to mud and lot of other stuck vehicles on the side roads. I really want to go sit out in the middle of the blooms somewhere and take it all in. But that is not allowed, and I get some good pictures instead. It is so quiet here, yet there is a symphony playing in the fields as birds sing among the swaying stems of flowers. So windy! At one point Tyler started to get out of the car and a blast of wind and dust blew into the car – covering everything within.

Figure 12. Carrizo Plain National Monument wildflower displays.

It is a long drive to the other end of the Plain – about 30 miles on a bumpy dirt road. Not a lot of people are out there. This harsh environment is far away and isolated. It is a special place reserved for the plants, animals, rocks, and soils of this place. We are outsiders there and are grateful for our brief visit. We see masses of common fiddleneck (Amsinckia intermedia), redstem stork’s-bill (Erodium cicutarium), Great Valley Phacelia (Phacelia ciliata), Common Hillside Daisy (Monolopia lanceolata), Stanislaus Milkvetch (Astragalus oxyphysus), Yellow Goldfields (Lasthenia sp.), and tidytips (Layia platyglossa) – but no poppies. The visitor center isn’t open, so we do a short hike up to the Soda Lake Overlook. There I finally see nice displays of baby blue eyes (Nemophila menziesii) gusting on the windy hillsides below. We drive home the long way through Santa Margarita. Outside the Plains, on Route 58 (Blue Star Memorial Highway) are similar outstanding super bloom wildflower displays.  

Figure 13. Great Valley Phacelia and Common Hillside Daisy in the Carrizo Plains. 

Figure 14. Common Fiddlenecks in the Carrizo Plains.

Figure 15. Redstem stork’s-bill and Yellow Goldfields in the Carrizo Plains. 

Figure 16. Tidytips in the Carrizo Plains.

Airbnb Home and Nearby Parks

I just love California. The ocean and mountains and tropical flowers, perfect temperatures, and typically few rainy days make it a perfect place. We especially like the countryside. Yet, I feel a bit off this week and worry that I am missing the super bloom that I want so dreadfully to see. The social media wildflower groups are supposed to help me find it, yet somehow their posts make the search feel more competitive than spiritual. They post cropped, nice shots, and I think I want to see what they see. 

In the end, I learn that I was seeing it all along. There are masses of blooms in the hills everywhere we drive. I learn that it is more than seeing, I need to experience the super blooms on my own, in my own way. So, I delete all the social media groups and trust my intuition and inner spiritual connections to reveal what I’m supposed to see. I decide to let the flowers lead and that they will tell me when and where to find them. So, I relax, am patient, and simply enjoy each moment in this paradise.

As I begin to relax, the plants invite me to spend time with them in many locations around our Airbnb. I go for a long solo walk one day to the Alice Keck Memorial Park. It’s a pleasant 20-minute walk there, with a bit of an uphill hike coming back. The park is very nice. Lots of mature plants and water features, benches, and a few structures. I sit on a couple benches to bask in the sun and take in my surroundings. I particularly enjoy the birds in this location. Hummingbirds work in a tall tree, ravens play loudly all around, and spice finches (a new bird for me) eat iris seeds. There are also ducks and turtles nearby. And, of course, there are lots of blooming plants, including a pretty pink blooming oxalis, Foxtail agave (Agave attenuata), Pride of Madeira (Echium candicans), Iris, Clivia, Yellow elder tree (Tecoma stans), and Coastal tea tree (Leptospermum laevigatum). 

Another day, we all enjoy a walk in Rocky Nook Park near our house. It is a town park, next to Mission Creek with lots of rocky outcrops. It truly lives up to its name. Lots of people are there picnicking and BBQing. Such a perfect weather day to be outside. Between the rocks are grasses and forbs, including miner’s lettuce (Claytonia perfoliate), nasturtium, fiesta flower (Pholistoma auritum), and Bermuda buttercup (Oxalis pes-caprae).

Figure 17. Rocky Nook Park.

Figure 18. Miner's Lettuce at Rocky Nook Park.

Figure 19. Fiesta flower at Rocky Nook Park.

The last day we enjoy another park and our house’s patio. Mark and I walk up to Orpet Park, another nice green space in a pretty neighborhood. Particularly interesting there is the Mikey mouse plant fruits. Later, I fully immerse into our Airbnb’s outdoor space and write this reflection...

As I sit here on the back patio of our Airbnb in Santa Barbara, CA I am warmed by the sun rays burning down from the cobalt blue sky above. Occasionally, puffy white clouds block the sun, and we are immediately cool. Yet, the small ocean breeze feels good as it moves my long, brown hair and gently brushes my cheek. I hear the breeze rustling the palm leaves next door. In the opposite neighboring backyard, a metal wind chime rings in rhythm to the palm leaves. These houses are close together, yet it is very quiet here and peaceful. I can see the ocean way down the cliff face of town. It is a couple miles away, and a bit foggy out at sea today. The fog clouds the channel island view making it hard to tell if there is land or more clouds out there. 

I hear birds singing and calling here and there – a dove, mockingbird, raven, and sparrow. Hummingbird wings hum past every now and then. An old gnarly avocado sits in the back middle of the lot. Sparsely foliated plum and cherry trees in need of pruning are on the corner and side. A few pots of succulents and the rest is mainly weeds – sow thistle, mayweed, spurge, and mallow. I’m always impressed by how many shades and hues of green are in our plant world, especially when spotlighted by the sun. 

Lotusland

Lotusland is a divergence from finding natural wildflowers, but so worth it. Mark, Lynn, and I enjoy a 2 ½ hour guided tour around this amazing 37-acre private garden. A docent leads us and two other people around and through the rare and exotic plant collections from around the world. Large collections of cycads, cacti, succulents, aloe, and more. Saying it is impressive is an understatement, and too much to see in two hours. We barely waltz through it. The cacti garden makes the biggest statement. The lemon arbor is surprisingly striking as are the botanical clock and topiaries. I could go on and on. Check out their website at https://www.lotusland.org/, or better yet, go see it for yourself. 

Figure 20. Cactus collection at Lotusland.

Figure 21. Lemon pergola at Lotusland.

Figure 22. Botanical Clock at Lotusland.

Montana de Oro Buchon Trail

March 31, 2023, 11:32 a.m. I levitated and went to poppy heaven! This is a more than magical place. Orange poppies cover the hillside from mountain to ocean – a chorus of orange. Also, a light purple wild radish flower and a few lupines too. Out in the ocean we see the occasional whale spouting and tail fins sparkling in the sun. Birds sing as we walk into the poppy heaven. I kneel to honor them and say thanks for bringing me here and giving me this gift that I’ll treasure forever. 

We drive two hours north to Montana de Oro State Park to hike the Point Buchon Trail. Although accessed through the park, the 6.6-mile roundtrip trail is owned and preserved by the Pacific Gas and Light Company. It is a perfect sunny day and just slightly cool at ocean’s edge. We hike along the coast’s ragged edges and watch the crystal blue-white waves crash against the rocky shore. Old, eroded, holey rocks emerge here and there from the surf. Along the trail are a variety of plants, including lupine, milkvetch, scarlet pimpernel (Anagallis arvensis), Stork’s-Bills, California goldfields, and of course – poppies. 

Figure 23. Scarlet pimpernel (Anagallis arvensis) along the Point Buchon trail at Montana de Oro State Park.

We stop at an overlook and look for whale spouts. Through the binoculars we see the spout sprays of the giant beasts as they move along the coast. Lynn excitedly sees a tail and we can see their fins, or something, sparkle in the sun as they move through the water. Seeing them is a pigeonhole moment for us all. 

Near the trails end – about 2 miles in – the path curves up and across a large hillside COVERED in orange poppies. It is incredible. They just keep getting more numerous and more orange. I kneel and take it all in. Finally, I am smack dab in the middle of a super bloom!  

Figure 24. Rhonda in the poppy super bloom.

Figure 25. Poppies and a wild radish grow along the Point Buchon trail.

Figure 26. Poppies along the mountain side of the Point Buchon Trail. 

We also see an osprey, swallows, and sparrows. They sing beautifully as we walk along. Many California ground squirrels scurry around us and we walk past a recently dug badger hole. There is so much life out here. Gulls and pelicans and geese and cormorants are in the water. It is truly a treasured place. 

Oatman, Arizona

On our drive home, we divert off the interstate to drive route 66’s Oatman Highway. Wow! What a great place. We see wild burros there and an old wild west town. Lots of wildflowers paint the desert floor and interesting rock formations throughout, including notch-leaf scorpionweed (Phacelia crenulata), desert chicory (Rafinesquia neomexicana), brittlebush (Encelia farinose), lupine, Esteve’s Pincushion (Chaenactis stevioides), white woolly daisy (Eriophyllum lanosum),  Chia sage (Salvia columbariae), pygmy poppy (Eschscholzia minutiflora), and Mexican gold poppy (Eschscholzia californica ssp. mexicana). I get out several times to take pictures but never do really capture the colors and beauty of this place. The drive along Oatman highway twists up, around, and through the mountains, exposing vista upon vista. A magical, mystery place. 

Figure 27. Notch-leaf scorpionweed and brittlebush along Oatman Highway in Arizona. 

Figure 28. Wild burro in Oatman, Arizona.

Figure 29.Mexican gold poppy along Route 66's Oatman Highway.

As always, I enjoyed my trip to the Southwest and California. I saw the super bloom, had a lovely boat ride, saw lots of new plants, had good hardy meals and a few healthy ones. I spent time with family and Tyler’s friends. Mostly, I connected with the natural world a bit more, in a personal way. I was patient and sent my love to the plant world. In turn, they welcomed me in to share a little time and space with them. The land is theirs. I felt honored to be in these natural places, and to share a moment in their world. 

Yes, I experienced the super bloom and fulfilled my lifelong dream to be One with the flowers in their natural domain. Along the way, the flowers also taught me a valuable lesson. I cannot force the connection to nature. It will find me. Experiences with nature are personal. Although I share them with others through social media and pictures, the deepest connections I feel of bliss and spirit are so deep within me that they cannot be fully expressed. Everyone needs to take their own journey of exploration. Mine was with wildflowers to learn once again to be patient and listen to their lessons. Beautiful lessons that I want to experience again and again. Maybe my childhood meadow dream is not a one-time fulfillment, but a lifelong journey that I’ve only just begun.