Southwest National Parks Provide Surprise and Fun During COVID Travels

It was a cold day in late January as we started our journey from home in Central Illinois to our February Airbnb In Morro Bay, California. Our journey took us through several states and many unique landscapes and ecosystems. Along the way we visited four of our nations finest national park sites. 

Our first was White Sands National Park in New Mexico. It was an unplanned stop, but as is usually the case, a wonderful surprise addition to our trip. Tucked within military mission training sites, this park is a stark landscape of deep white gypsum sands. The overcast cool day, dark rain clouds, and white drifts gave the impression that we were in the Arctic, not a desert. Dotted among the crystal white sand dunes are some of the hardiest plants. Similar to arctic plants, the plants here are adapted to the harshest of conditions: dry, hot, cold, infertile, and wind blown. Yet, the soaptree yucca, rubber rabbit brush, cholla, and little bluestem grass thrive and add graceful green to the vast whiteness. I climbed the dunes to see the views, then sledded back down with screams and giggles of delight. Wow, that was fun! 

The next day found us in Tucson where we visited Saguaro National Park East. We had visited the western part of the park in 2014 while there attending a Garden Writers Association meeting. The eastern portion had less saguaros overall, but I liked it better in many ways. The hard paved road around the park took us through hills and valleys full of desert plants unique to this area. Giant saguaro stood tall among prickly pear, cholla, acacia, barrel cactus, mesquite shrubs, and more. On the Mica trail we walked among the desert plants while viewing the snow capped Mica mountains in the distance. 

We left there and headed toward our next stop in Blythe, CA. On the way, we decided to make another unplanned stop - this time at the nations oldest preserved archaeology site. Casa Grande Ruins National Monument preserves an ancient cultural site of irrigation farmers who grew corn, cotton, prickly pear, squash, and more. Completed about 1350, this central walled compound contained a four-story house, ball court, mounds, and networks of irrigation canals. 

Our final park stop before reaching our February home was Joshua Tree National Park. As we moved through the cholla teddy bear cactus garden, giant smooth boulders, Joshua Trees, and Hidden Valley, this park quickly moved to our top ten favorite places. The teddy bear cacti’s deceptive furry looking spines glowed in the morning sun. Ocatillo cactus started to come alive following the recent rare snow event, sending out red spikes and small leaves along their long, spiky stems. Small and large Joshua trees dotted the expansive Mojave desert with shaggy trunks and spiky leaves. As we climbed up and down and around the hidden valley nature trail, the plants put on a show of various colors and shapes, where pinyon pines, oaks, and junipers joined the cacti and succulents. 

Five days and 2400 miles later we arrived to a brilliant orange and yellow sunset ocean view from the picture windows in our temporary Morro Bay home. After a 10 day quarantine, we hiked, biked, and kayaked natural areas all around Morro Bay (see other blogs about our adventures). 

We added one more National park visit on our way home in March at the Petrified Forest National Park in Arizona. After a short look around the visitor center (surprisingly open during COVID), we hiked the large log trail. The massive petrified tropical trees were fascinating. So many colors in the logs from minerals during the petrification process. We were short on time so drove through the rest of the park, only stopping briefly at the other end to see the picturesque desert view. It is truly a painted desert with layers of colors in the rocks, very few trees, and only a few shrubs scattered across the wide desert. We need to go back and explore this park more. 

Our National Parks are truly unique and astonishing, each in their own way. I can’t wait to visit more parks this year. We have camping reservations for Yellowstone, Grand Tetons, and Rocky Mountain National Park this fall.

Exploring Shawnee National Forest on a Tiger

A black swallowtail butterfly flies along side my foot peg. Indigo bunting birds lead us into the woods. A woodsy scent lures us into the lush, green jungle that is Shawnee National Forest. We’ve been to this pristine forest many times in southern Illinois, but this time is different – better. Our Triumph Tiger motorcycle allows us a full experience, complete with woodsy and floral smells, scenic natural views, and a variety of perfect motorcycle roads. The vibes of this forest are strong, melding our souls to the cosmos around us.

Dixon Springs Campground

Our basecamp is Dixon Springs State Park campground. We are nestled under the dense shade cover of many trees. The campsites are spread out nicely and it is shady and quiet. The Chocolate Factory across the highway is a nice bonus to this location.

Dirt Road near Hicks, IL

We are following parts of the “Shawnee Forest 430 Mile Loop” motorcycle map we found online at usdualsports.com. Our favorite roads are hard packed dirt that wind through the National Forest. Along a particularly rustic "fire road," we stop for a snack and water break. Sitting on a fallen log, we are enveloped in the forest. A peewee bird sings to us in the distance. Large beech trees surround us. A very nice respite spot.

At Cave-in-Rock we have a beer at the lodge on their patio overlooking the wide Ohio river. A feeling of bliss overcomes me as I soak up the sun, beer, peace, companionship, river view, and flowering plants around me. We hike to the cave along a short trail and meet two other adventure bike riders. The cave is impressive in size and has a split in the top that lets in natural sunlight.

Indian Kitchen along Lusk Creek

On day two we ride to the Lusk Creek Nature Preserve. We find a trailhead off Ragan Road and walk through the national forest to a clearing where horses tie up. Beyond that is the state preserve leading to Indian Kitchen. A massive rock face rises above the serene Lusk creek, which flows into the cliff face down a rocky stream with water plants at the end to slow its flow. The water under the cliff is a cloudy grey-green, making us think it is deep and cold. The water is clear at the edge where a few small minnows swim. Swallows work the cliff face, going in and out of honeycomb holes to feed their young. Way up the sheer rock, heuchera (coral bells) grow on the wall – hanging on in a mysterious way. Water runs over the edge in places, dripping into the pool. We sit by a burned out firepit, eat raisins and absorb the loveliness all around us. Soon we hear people nearby. When we climb out of the “kitchen,” there are about 12 horses tied up and several people having snacks. They are shocked when we walk out of the woods and even more surprised that we hiked 3 miles there.

Elizabethtown Catfish Restaurant 

We have lunch in Elizabethtown on a floating restaurant where they serve catfish caught on the Ohio river. A Jon boat is here delivering its morning catch, which are cleaned in a small hut before heading to the kitchen to fry. Our fresh catfish sandwich was exceptional.

The moto map leads us down a variety of roads in the afternoon. Sparks Hills Road has deep ruts, a section of deep gravel, and horse riders blocking the road. At Glen O. Jones Lake, we find a Tecumseh statue, with a nice tribute to this important Native American. Great winding, paved roads lead us back to camp.

Bell Smith Springs Natural Bridge

On our final day, the Tiger takes us to waterfalls of Southern Illinois. At Bell Smith Springs we take the 1.5-mile loop trail to the Natural Bridge. At a creek crossing a mass of swallowtail butterflies feed on the wet sand. We hike up to the top of the natural bridge – Illinois’s longest natural bridge at 150 feet long, 30 feet wide, and 60 feet tall. It is quite an impressive natural wonder. The waterfall behind the bridge is dry, so we need to come back when it is flowing.

Bork Falls at Fern Clyffe Park

We ride to Fern Clyffe State Park and hike the boy scout trial to Redman Falls. It is barely a trickle, but its wet rocky slope is quite pretty. We ride the Tiger down Happy Hollow Road to Regent Road, going across large, flat rock, creek crossings and lots of very rough roads. We stop to walk a short trail to Bork Falls – a 100-foot tall, intermittent waterfall that flows nicely over the rocky ledge. A mother and two small kids swim in the pool below the falls.

Trigg Tower 

The day also includes several surprises. On Buncombe Road to Vienna a tired horse walks down a driveway and into the roadway in front of us – all on its own. It seems to know where it is going. Perhaps the most beautiful ride of the day was through the Simpson Barrens Natural Area on Trigg Tower Road to the Trigg Tower. We climb four flights of stairs up the old fire watch tower to an expansive view above the treetops, where we can see for miles and miles into the Shawnee National Forest. On the way back to camp, we stop along Rushing Road to enjoy another bluff-top overlook of the valley.

Scenic View on Rushing Road

Riding the Tiger motorcycle gives us a new perspective of Southern Illinois and lead us to some new locations. I can smell the honeysuckle and rose blossoms along the way as I enjoy the beautiful natural scenery that is Southern Illinois.  

Nature's Euphoria on Black Mountain Road

Wow! Wow! Woohoo! I'm glad we saved the best for last. This road is amazing. 

My husband Mark and I spent the month of February in Morro Bay, California in an Airbnb. We took our new Triumph Tiger motorcycle with us and enjoyed many day rides exploring and soaking up Central California's magical natural areas. On Tuesday, February 23rd, we rode the Black Mountain Road. Below is my journal entry from that day. 

Rock slides 

Turkey Flat Staging Area

We started our ride at the Turkey Flat staging area and rode up, up, up. We rode on a very narrow, paved path that skirts cliffs and mountains, peaks and valleys. Rock slides put obstacles in our path. The asphalt buckles and rolls in places.

I must say that this is the closest to nature I've felt in a long time. At the top we can see in every direction for miles and miles. Dense trees cover the ground below us - over hills and mountains that roll on and on in the distance, never seeming to end. I feel giddy, euphoric and keep smiling. The intense beauty almost brings me to tears. We truly feel on top of the world - connected to the earth and it's beauty all around us. 

Journaling in Nature

Now we are at a crossroads where a dirt road intersects the paved one. I got off to sit while Mark rides the dirt road alone. I'm sitting on a blanket in a grassy, soft area - completely enclosed in nature. Trees circle me above the shrubs and grasses. The wind whips in the cliffs behind me. Here the sun is warm on my arms and back. In front of me are two tall soft needled pines. To the left are gnarly deciduous and dead oaks, some with large bunches of mistletoe decorating their canopy. The sky is blue with wispy white clouds. Bright green grass is all around me. 

Total paradise!

Crossroads intersection

Mark at top of Black Mountain Road

Mistletoe in Oak tree

Climbing up Black Mountain Road

Amaryllis Brighten a Dreary Winter Day

The amaryllis is a symbol of determination, beauty, and love. Some also associate this flower with strength, determination, and success. I think it is all those things and more. Each morning for the past month, I’ve watched my amaryllis elongate and open its spectacular blooms. Each day the flower looks stronger and more beautiful. Each day it inspires me to also do something that brings beauty, love, and strength into our world.

Amaryllis flowers make a bold statement. Borne on a 1 ½ to 2-foot tall stalk, the trumpet-shaped, 6-inch blooms dominate their surroundings. After flowering, the plant produces attractive, bright green leaves, and with a little care will flower year after year.

Amaryllis growing kits are common this time of year. Check them before purchasing to be sure the bulbs are solid. Some will start to grow in the box, and just need light and water to continue. Follow the  instructions found on the box.

Star of Holland Amaryllis

Dad and I both got our amaryllis the same day. His ‘Star of Holland’ was supposed to reach 20-24 inches tall with two stems of eight inch flowers. However, his bulb had grown substantially in the box, and did not grow very tall before blooming. Still, it did have 3-4 eight inch blooms on 2 stalks, and they were outstanding

If you buy an amaryllis bulb without a kit, follow these procedures for potting. Since the bulbs are large and thrive in cramped quarters, allow only one-half inch of space between the bulb and side of the pot. Fill the pot with a good potting soil. Set the bulb so that half of it is above the pot rim. Add more soil to about one inch from the pot rim. Firm the soil and drench it with lukewarm water until the surplus drains through the bottom hole.      

The amaryllis needs heat to start growing so place the pot in a dark, warm, airy space until the first leaves or flower buds show. Then move the amaryllis into a sunny location and water thoroughly. Do not water again until the soil feels dry to the touch. When the flower blooms, move it out of direct sunlight so it will last longer.

My amaryllis (shown below) is a ‘Red Lion,’ with multiple, large red flowers on 20-26” stalks. As you can see in the picture, my bulb had already slightly sprouted so I put it in a north window above a floor heater. When it had fully elongated and flower buds were formed, I moved it to a south-east window – mainly because that is where I can see it best each morning over coffee.

If you want to rebloom your amaryllis each year, follow these tips to assure the plant’s health and beauty for many seasons. When the flowers fade, return the pot to bright sunlight. Allow the plant to grow several long, strap-like leaves to help rebuild the bulb. When danger of frost is past, plunge the pot in your garden where the plant will receive filtered sunlight.

In mid-September, the outer leaves will begin to yellow, an indication that the plant needs a rest. Cut all the leaves to within an inch of the neck of the bulb, bring the plant in and stop watering. Store it in a cool spot at 50 to 55 degrees F and forget it until late November or early December. At that time, bring the plant back to the light, replant if needed, begin watering, and watch it grow. When the bulb begins to show signs of growth, start the blooming cycle again.

Start an amaryllis bulb today to brighten your winter household.

Red Lion Amaryllis on 12-6-2020

Red Lion Amaryllis on 1-10-2021

Red Lion Amaryllis on 1-13-2021

Red Lion Amaryllis on 1-14-2021

Red Lion Amaryllis on 1-14-2021

A January Visit to the St. Louis Zoo

Yesterday gave us a great opportunity to visit the St. Louis Zoo. We had to go to St. Louis for another reason anyway, and since the zoo requires reservations due to COVID, we felt safe in their outside exhibits. This zoo has amazing animal exhibits, and it is free (except the $10 parking fee). I t also has some nice landscape plants and displays.

Winterberry

The first plant to greet us was a common winterberry (Ilex verticillata) in the parking lot. It’s bright clusters of red berries covered the small shrubs, making quite an impressive display. This plant is native to eastern North America. I’m not sure which cultivar this one was, but the native plant grows 3-12 feet tall in an upright-rounded habit. This is a holly plant, but unlike its relatives, it is a deciduous plant – dropping its leaves each fall. Like its relatives, it is a dioecious plant and needs one male plant for every 6-10 plants in order to produce berries.

Nandina at left, Bamboo at right

Another red berried shrub attracting attention was the heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica). Unfortunately, this is not a native plant and is potentially invasive. This is not a true bamboo, though there were giant cane bamboo plants (Arundinaria gigantea) planted at the zoo.

A leatherleaf viburnum (Viburnum rhytidophyllum) caught my eye in the bird garden, where signage discussed how to garden to attract birds. This viburnum is an upright semi-evergreen shrub, reaching 6-10 feet tall.

Tucked under an arborvitae in the bird garden was a plant that really surprised me. I never expected to see a tropical looking plant in winter. Italiam arum (Arum italicum) is an herbaceous perennial shade plant hardy to zones 5-10. It prefers a moist soil in a shady area. The Missouri Botanical Garden website says its “leaves emerge in autumn and are evergreen in warm climates. However, in colder climates the leaves often die in winter, resprout in spring, then go dormant in summer.

On our way out of the zoo, two displays caught my eye. A container featured a blooming witchhazel surrounded by pansy plants. See my blog on witchhazels for more information on this plant.

Also at the entrance was a 24-foot tall giraffe topiary. Although not a live topiary, it was very impressive. I believe it is part of their Christmas light displays. See the zoo’s YouTube on how they construct this impressive giraffe.

Winter at the zoo was a different experience that I really enjoyed. I really liked seeing the Bactrian camel, Chinese goral, red panda, jaguar, Amur tiger, snow leopard, and grizzly bears (all pictured below). Of course, the highlight of the St Louis Zoo for me is always the penguin exhibit. I’ve been to many zoos across our nation and I think this penguin exhibit is the best. It allows visitors to get up close and personal with the penguins and puffins. This was especially true yesterday since there were so few zoo visitors. We had a private viewing inside the penguin-puffin house – just us, four types of penguins, two types of puffins, and a security guard.

Visiting the zoo during the COVID pandemic felt very safe. The masks helped keep us warm, though it did take some time to find a position where our glasses didn’t fog up so much.  We were able to take the masks off for a coffee and scone break by a duck pond.

If you’ve never visited a zoo in the winter, I highly recommend it. Although it was only 30 degrees outside, we were bundled up warmly. In many ways it was more comfortable than former visits there in the heat of summer.

Bactrian camel

Chinese goral

Jaguar

Snow leopard

Amur tiger

Red Panda

Grizzly bear

King penguins

Humboldt penguins

Unplugging with Nature at Loretta Lynn’s Ranch

For many years Mark and I have wanted to go to Loretta Lynn’s ranch. I have always loved her and her music and wanted to see her town and museum. Mark wanted to ride his motorcycle at a Loretta Lynn moto event. 2020 was to be our year, but as the April planned event neared, the Middle Tennessee Dirt Riders group had to postpone their 19^th annual spring ride due to the pandemic. Luckily, the outdoor camping and riding environment allowed safe social distancing and we were able to attend the rescheduled event in June.

So, on June 25^th we left for Tennessee. It was a long drive through the hills of Kentucky and Tennessee. We arrived in early evening, and after some confusion, decided on campsite #40 in the upper campground. A ranch worker – Chuck – came right away to help us check in and get hooked up. The upper campground is staged in a large, wooded area, so I thought this would be the quieter, cooler option. Wrong! To my astonishment the trail head for each day’s motorcycle trail ride, began just across from our camper. This was also a no-fire area, so we had to do all our cooking on the campstove, which was still good and fun.

Tour Hurricane Mills

This trip proved to be a great time to unplug and unwind. Before Mark’s riding event began, we had time to explore the ranch and Hurricane Mills town (Loretta owns the entire town). We first went through Loretta’s museum. So much stuff in there. Pictures, awards, guitars, song sheets, furniture, and so much more. More than we could see in one visit. I think what stood out for me were the Grammy awards, her first dress and guitar, and the dresses she wore on album covers. I got a little choked up being there. She has been my idol for so long!

We decided to take the guided tours since we felt safe with our masks and the small group. Derek, our guide, first took us to the Bucher Holler family home replica. Just an old shack, but it was very neat! There was a Navajo crochet afghan like I make, and lots of doilies in the museum.

Walnut tree by plantation home

Next, we got on a small tour bus and Derek drove us to the big plantation home. We were able to walk around the lower floor of the pre civil war home. It was very 1970’s. She collects lots of stuff: Avon things, salt & pepper shakers, dolls, iron pans, and more. I don’t feel so bad about all my stuff now. We each live in our own way, and that is okay. I liked her office where she wrote songs and painted.

Lots of plants stood out at Hurricane Mills. They had ornamental and edible landscape plants around the museums. Outside the plantation house was a huge old walnut tree. I wonder what it has seen through the years. Did it see the civil war soldiers, former slave, and such? I loved the houses front porch with all its plants, and how they were displayed.

Creek Time

Hops Tree

We spent many hours resting along a creek that runs through the ranch. It was so peaceful there. We were mostly all alone - just the creek, a scarlet tanager, Mark, and me. The first day we sat close to a little ripple area with the sound of rushing water. Mark fished and caught a couple small bass. I studied my plant books, journaled, and soaked in the nature all around me. In addition to the scarlet tanager, I saw butterflies, a hops tree, and heard a blue jay.

Alone Time

While Mark rode his dirt bike each day, I took advantage of alone time to hike, explore, journal, play my guitar, and watercolor paint. One day I visited the Patsy Cline plane crash site – a very solemn place.

Showy Skullcap

Another day, I went to Johnsonville State Park, I learned history about the civil war camps and battles there. It is also a quiet and peaceful place. No one else was there except the park employees and me. I started at the top and did a short hike where I found wild petunia. Back to the bottom I hiked out to a point on the water and around a large hill. Kentucky Lakes is still huge there where the Tennessee River also flows. Union forces held this spot for a few years. I took pictures of lots of different plants there (see them in google photos). They included a field pansy, fringed houstonia, trumpet vine, water hemlock, moth mullein, yellow water buttercup, American germander, 
showy skullcap, and water willow.

The motorcycles were loud at camp, so on the last day I ventured back to Hurricane Mills. Here is my journal entry and drawing from there.

"Finally, I found a peaceful spot. Sitting on a swing by hurricane creek in front of Loretta Lynn’s house. A bit overcast with a lovely breeze that blows the water’s coolness over me. I hear the water flow over the dam. I hear the birds and see swallows fly all over catching bugs to feed their young in the nests all along the under bridge. I smell the algae in the water and the fresh air. I feel the stickiness of my skin from the humidity. Yet it’s cool from the breeze. What do I see that brings me joy?"

• The gray green water meanders around the bend and over the falls
• The swallows
• Buttercups and clover, willows and wisteria
• Silence and no motorcycles
• Warm sun and no rain
• Joy in this moment in time.

Overall, it was an amazing trip. Next year’s MTDR Off-road Trail Ride is April 9-11. We plan to camp by the creek, since we now know there are camping hookups there. I can’t wait to camp by the creek and explore the areas spring flowers.  

More pictures from this trip are found in my Loretta Lynn's Ranch 2020 google photo album.

Impact of Ice, Snow, and Cold on Plants

Today I sit in my warm office and listen to the ice-laden plants tinkle and crack outside with each gust of winter wind. An ice-weighted elm at the side of our woods has already crashed three large limbs to the ground. Small twigs dot the front yard beneath each tree, especially the flowering dogwood and river birch. Although the ice is pretty, as it wraps plants and structures in sparkling cocoons, excess ice is also very damaging.

The right weather conditions can cause ice to coat all parts of plants, making them very heavy and susceptible to breakage. If ice develops do not attempt to remove it. Ice must melt away naturally. Pruning may be required if breakage does occur. Trees most susceptible to ice damage include those that are topped and those with weak forks and brittle wood such as silver maple, tree-of-heaven, mulberry, and willow.

At this point, I’m hoping for snow. Snow is typically safer on plants than ice. Accumulations of snow can cause severe damage to some landscape plants. Evergreens such as yews, hemlocks, and junipers are especially susceptible to damage from snow. Although wet snow is more hazardous to plants than drier powder snow, any heavy snow can cause problems. Increased weight from snow can cause branches of trees and shrubs to break. Therefore, if you notice your plants weighted down by snow, shake them off as soon as possible with a broom or light rake. Most plants will recover after the weight is relieved, but some could experience longer lasting injury.

Cold temperature effects on plants depend largely on the plant itself. Each type of plant has a different inherent tolerance to cold temperatures. Currently our outdoor plants are dormant and resting for the winter. Dormancy allows plants to withstand low temperatures. For example, a maple tree can withstand a temperature of –30⁰F when dormant but may be severely damaged by a temperature just below freezing during the growing season. However, even dormant plants can still suffer during the winter. Extremely cold winter temperatures usually do not kill entire plants but can kill other parts such as flower buds of some marginally hardy plants including peaches and dogwood.

The good news is that heavy snows and cold temperatures will help each other to reduce overall plant damage. Heavy snows insulate the ground and therefore protect low-growing plants and roots from the cold. Roots never really go dormant and cannot tolerate low temperatures like aboveground parts can. Although the top of a boxwood shrub may be able to tolerate –10⁰F, the roots will probably be killed at 20⁰F. Snow cover is an excellent mulch and helps keep roots warm. Snow cover also reduces the likelihood of frost heaving of plants.

Unfortunately, there is little we can do to protect our landscape plants from cold temperatures. It is a wait-and-see situation. We’ll find out this spring if significant damage occurred or not. The best way to prevent winter injury is to plant winter-hardy plant material and care for it properly.