Gardening Blues

The color blue is sometimes difficult to use in the garden. This is partly because there are very few true-blue flowers in nature and partly because some of the most striking blue-flowered plants are challenging to grow in Central Illinois. Still adding a touch of blue to the garden continues to gain in popularity.

Colors invoke emotion. Cool colors of blue, green, and violet are peaceful and make an area seem cooler and larger. Blue is the color of distance and can help create the illusion of depth in a small garden. Soft purples and blues can make your garden feel larger because those plants seem farther away.

On the other hand, warm colors of orange, red and yellow grab your attention creating a focal point in the garden. They also make large areas appear smaller. Brighter colors function well as accents. 

In a small garden, color can be used in gradation to create the illusion of space. A great way to achieve this is to have, for instance, bold blue flowers at one end that fade into a lighter blue at the other end of the garden. The garden will always appear larger from the bolder end of the color scale so make sure this is where you spend most of your time in your garden.

Some blue flowers can be challenging to grow in Illinois, but their beauty is worth the extra effort. For example, some varieties of Hydrangea macrophyla produce a beautiful blue flower in acid soil, thus needing routine acid fertilizer applications. Delphiniums and lupines have a particularly vibrant violet-blue color. Although we can get them to produce flowers in Illinois, they prefer cooler temperatures than our summers typically provide. Similarly, blue poppies provide an outstanding icy-blue flower but are very hard to grow in our climate. 

Salvia and Coreopsis

Easier options include clematis, bell flowers (Campanula), bluestar (Amsonia), morning glories, lavender, salvia, and asters. Of these, the morning glory comes in the truest blue color. Morning glory blooms only last a one day and open in the mornings, so be sure to catch them in the garden over your morning coffee. 

Blue Obelisks at Rotary Gardens in Wisconsin

Color doesn't have to be limited to flowers. Add interest to your yard with garden art or containers. A bold blue ceramic pot, for example, can make just as much impact as the blooms it holds. Blue bottles used as bottle trees, as edging, or as carefully placed garden art are also very popular. Add blue focal points to the garden using a blue garden bench or gazing ball. 

Be creative, but don’t overdo it. Too much blue creates mental chaos and could leave garden visitors “feeling blue.” 

Originally Published in Canton Daily Ledger on 6-19-2018

Bed Edging Adds Neat, Clean Look to the Landscape

Landscape edging plays an important role in pulling the landscape together. Edging’s function is to form a clean, neat line between planting areas and turf or groundcovers. When installed properly, it should blend in with the landscape, minimize hand trimming, and help contain mulches within the bed areas.

Hand edging along junipers

Beds can be edged by hand, but it is hard work and must be touched up once or twice a year. Rhonda says that she particularly likes the look of a hand-edged bed. An edging area 4-inches deep and wide can easily contain bluegrass, which spread by underground stems.

Start by using a sharp spade to cut an edge, and then remove the soil and grass to form a small cliff. You can leave it hand-edged like this or fill the space with something solid like steel, wood, brick, stone, or plastic. 

The material used for edging should be long lasting, strong, and compliment the rest of your landscape. Here are some pointers about each type.

Installing steel bed edging

Metal edging, including steel and aluminum, is the longest lasting. Steel edgings have been around for more than 30 years but are relatively expensive, difficult to install properly, and has problems with frost heaving in the winter. The best places to use steel edging are where a great deal of side-strength is required, such as driveway work. Aluminum edging is easier to work with, but the silver color appears unnatural many landscapes. 

Brick, stone, and concrete make useful and decorative edging. Be sure the brick or pavers are well fired so they are waterproof. Stone should be at least 3 inches think and at least 4 inches wide to stop the grass. A sand or concrete base, containing reinforcing rods, provides added durability and strength. The newer continuous concrete edging, poured by special machines, is becoming popular and resists cracking due to the addition of polyolefin fibers.

Wood edging provides a beautiful natural look. Landscape timbers, ties, and treated 2x4s are readily available. These stay in place well and create a nice mowing edge. Rebars and toe nailed corners provide added reinforcement. Avoid using old railroad ties coated with materials that are toxic to plants. 

The most common edging used by homeowners is plastic since it is inexpensive and easy to install. Unfortunately, plastic edging has poor durability and an artificial appearance. Of all the materials used as edging, plastic is probably the hardest to install for a lasting stable edging material. Many of you have probably experienced the frustration of plastic edging that simply will not stay in the ground. Experts generally agree that round-top edgings are better since they do not sink as easily as flat types. If the flat plastic types are used, nail (using galvanized nails) a 1 x 1” strip of treated wood along the bottom of each strip where possible, to help stabilize the plastic. Most frost heaving can be stopped by using grooved or lip-style edging, steel anchoring stakes, and proper installation procedures.

Consider putting in a new edge on your landscape beds this fall. 

Originally Published in University of Illinois Extension Fall 2013 News Packet

Wedding Flowers

On June 1 (2015) my husband Mark and I will celebrate our 30th wedding anniversary. My Grandma Simmons told me June brides are extra special. I don’t know if that is true, but I sure did feel special that day. Certainly, June is a beautiful month for a wedding. Flowers are a part of all weddings and the bridal bouquet is key. 

Rhonda Simmons Ferree wedding party in 1985

Bridal bouquets are made of many different types of flowers and can be real, silk, or a combination of both. Prices depend on many factors such as flower type and season. Not all flowers are available year-round. For example, one of my favorite flowers is the Lily-of-the-Valley. It is not usually available for June weddings, so one of my University of Illinois professors attempted to force some for me. Unfortunately, it did not work properly so I included silk ones in my bouquet. 

Choice and often expensive bridal flowers include eucharis lilies, hybrid and phalaenopsis orchids, camellias, rubrum lilies, lily of the valley, freesia, ivy, and stephanotis. Many of these flowers are fragile, but if prepared properly will last very well in bouquets. Lily-of-the-Valley is wired and taped using a #30-gauge wire wrapped in light green floral tape. Wire and tape help florists control the design of the flower, but in a good bouquet these mechanics will not show. My floral design instructor told us repeatedly to never show our mechanics!

Moderate priced bouquet flowers include roses, hyacinths, fugi mums, ranunculus, gardenias, tuberoses, and stock. Roses are included in most bridal bouquets because it is the flower of love. Inexpensive flowers in a bouquet might include mums, asters, carnations, daisies, and snapdragons. 

Greenery is important in a bouquet too (it hides mechanics). Greenery used in the florist industry includes leatherleaf, sprengeri fern, ivy, salal, and more.

The shape and length of the bridal bouquet varies as well. The bride may choose a round colonial or add a cascade to that. There are also clusters, crescents, and basquettes. Clutch bouquets show the individual flower stems, while the others have all stems wrapped in tape and ribbon. Ribbons add whimsical beauty and sometimes color. 

Flowers can and are used everywhere at a wedding. They are on the altar, candelabras, pews, kneeling benches, cakes, tables, as corsages, and so much more. The flowers normally used include the bride’s bouquet, attendants’ bouquets, corsages, boutonnieres, and floral decorations in the church plus reception decorations. There is no limit to the places where flowers can be used. Palms, ferns, potted plants, candles, ribbons, aisle runners, and baskets are used as well.

If you are planning a wedding in the future, remember the flowers and that anything is possible. Flowers are available in all types and price ranges. Consult your florist for a consultation. A professional florist will help make your day extra special – with flowers!

Originally Published in Canton Ledger Column on 5-30-15

Hawaiian Ti Plant

One plant used widely in floats at this year’s Rose Parade (2003) was the Hawaiian Ti plant. It had many uses in the parade floats and makes a beautiful houseplant too. 

One of my favorite New Year activities is watching the Rose Parade. This year’s parade was spectacular as usual. I watched it on Home and Garden TV, because they gave excellent plant descriptions. At one point, the hosts highlighted the Hawaiian Ti plant – Cordyline terminalis. This plant is also called good-luck plant and dracaena palm, although it is technically not a dracaena. 

Cordyline was used on many floats this year, but I especially liked its use on the Automobile Club of Southern California’s “A Big Adventure,” starring Stuart Little. For those who haven’t seen the Stuart Little 2 movie, in it the little mouse flies an airplane through New York City. On the float Stuart Little's plane was decorated in yellow strawflower and carnation petals with accents of red Ti leaves. Stuart’s jacket was made of maroon Ti leaves. 

The Ti plant is one that brings back visions of visits to my Grandma’s house. Grandma Simmons always had two Hawaiian Ti plants in big plastic, white urns in the living room. Looking back they were actually very scrawny plants, growing in a very dark location, but my Grandma was proud of those plants. Certainly her enthusiasm helped develop my love of plants. 

The Ti is a small palm-like tree with irregularly striped leaves. With the right cultivar grown in the right light conditions, the leaves are quite colorful. The ‘Kiwi’ cultivar has bright creamy-green striped foliage with red edges. ‘Red Sister’ has rich plum and deep burgundy leaves. 

As a houseplant, it can grow 3 to 6 feet tall, but usually is much smaller. This is a very tolerant plant, withstanding many household abuses such as low light, improper water, and fluctuating temperatures. For optimum growth, this plant prefers moderate light of partial shade or diffused light; warm temperatures of 70-80 degrees; and partially dry soil. It can tolerate 50 degrees for short periods. 

If you’d like a plant with bright leaf color, try a Hawaiian Ti. Maybe you could even use a few leaves on a float at a parade this summer!

Originally Published in Canton Ledger Column on 1-11-2003

Test Seed Viability

I recently found some old seed in my office and wondered if they were still viable. If you save leftover seed to use the following year, here are some ways to find out if they are still good. 

Seed viability is a measure of the number of seeds that are still alive to produce plants. Some seeds stay viable for many years, while others might only last a short time. For example, parsley and onion seed only last a year or two, while watermelon and cabbage should last four years or more. Most seed packets are dated so you know how old they are. 

The best way to see if your seed is still viable is to do a germination test following these steps. 

1. Place 10 seeds on a slightly damp paper towel. If the towel is too wet, the seeds will rot. 
2. Roll up or fold the paper towel and place it in a closed plastic bag to keep it from drying out. Use a permanent market to record the date and type of seed on the outside of the bag. Also, note the average germination times listed on the seed packet.  
3. Leave it in a warm place (above 70 degrees) for a few days. Although light isn’t a major factor for most seeds, a warm windowsill often works well. The top of the refrigerator is another good location. 
4. Based on the average germination time listed on the seed packet, check the seeds in a few days to see how many seeds have started to grow. If you don’t know the average germination rate, check them in 7-10 days. You might be able to see them through the paper towel. Often the roots begin growing first. 
5. Once they’ve begun to germinate, carefully remove the paper towel wrapped seeds from the bag. Then, unroll the paper to see how many seeds have sprouted. 

The germination test will show you the percentage of those seeds that are still alive. If only half of the seeds germinated in the paper towel, it is likely that only half will grow in your garden. If the germination rate is 70-90 percent, you should sow them a little thicker than normal in the garden. If less than 70 percent germinate, it might be better to buy new seed. 

You can plant the sprouted seeds in the garden or in a container. Since the root often grows into the paper towel, cut or tear around the seeds then plant the seeds, towel, and all. 

Larger seeds can also be tested using a water method. Place peas, beans, and corn in a bowl of water. If they sink, they're fine. If they float, toss them.

Seeds last longer when they are stored in a cool, dry place. In the winter, a cool basement or garage that doesn’t freeze works well. In the summer, a cool room or refrigerator will keep them at the right temperature and humidity level. 

Click on this factsheet link from Colorado State University Extension for more information on Storing Vegetable and Flower Seeds.

Originally Published in Canton Ledger Column on 2-4-17

Air Plants Are Easy to Grow

On a recent trip to Ft. Myers, Florida (March 2016) I visited the Edison & Ford Winter Estates where I toured their homes, gardens, laboratories, and museum. The plant collections there are fascinating, especially all the rubber trees they tested as possible sources for tire materials. 

Obviously, Edison is most famous for inventing the light bulb, so I took advantage of that by purchasing a small terrarium-type hanging planter shaped like a light bulb. Inside is an air plant sitting in sphagnum moss. It hangs above my kitchen window, and I love looking at it every day. 

Air plants, also known as Tillandsia, are interesting plants in the Bromeliad family. All bromeliads are epiphytes, which mean that they use something else for support. Therefore, in nature the plants use their root systems to grow harmlessly on trees and rocks. Instead of using their roots to get water and nutrients from soil, they acquire them from the air and rain through their leaves. 

To keep air plants healthy and happy, simply provide them with three ingredients - sun, water, and air circulation. 

First, light is needed in the form of filtered, not direct, sunlight through a south, east, or west window. During the summer you can hang them outside in a tree or other protected location. 

Second, the key to growing Tillandsia is proper watering. I like to mist mine every few days to keep the sphagnum moss substrate moist, yet let the plant dry out slightly between watering. If the leaves curl or roll, they are too dry. To revive them, submerge the plant in water overnight and shake away any excess water before returning it to its display location. 

Third, good air circulation helps the plant dry out some between watering and prevents diseases. Air plants grow well displayed in terrariums, which are clear glass or plastic containers filled with small plants. 

Often terrariums are tightly closed, but my light-bulb shaped container has one side completely open to help with air circulation. Air plants are simple to grow and can be displayed in many ways. 

Originally Published in Canton Ledger Column on 3-5-16

Preserving Flowers

As you plan your summer gardens, consider adding flowers you can preserve or use in arrangements. The pleasure of growing flowers in a garden is only a portion of gardening enjoyment. Flowers and foliage that is gathered from the garden and preserved or arranged can reward you in many other ways. 

Cutting gardens include flowers that cut well and are long-lasting. Sturdy stems and long-lasting qualities make many plants good choices for cutting flowers. Floral arrangements make superb gifts and are a wonderful way to bring your garden into your home. Flowers that make good cut flowers include yarrow, zinnia, snapdragon, sunflower, and cosmos just to name a few. Many seed companies offer premixed cutting garden seeds. 

dried mums and sunflowers

You can also preserve flowers and foliage for many years by including them in wreaths, arrangements, potpourri, and gifts. Preservation methods include hanging and pressing plants, or using various drying agents.

Hanging or air-drying is the easiest and best method for preserving most flowers. If you have a garden, you have the beginnings for dried plant material. Many annuals, perennials, grasses, and foliage can be preserved easily at home. Dried flowers can add an expensive-looking decorating touch to your home at almost no cost. Flowers that air-dry well are Strawflowers, golden rod, hydrangea, celosia, Queen Anne's lace, statice, baby's breath, globe amaranth, salvia, yarrow and ornamental grasses such as bamboo, cattail, oats, sorghum, timothy, and millet.

dried roses

Pressing flowers is another easy method; however, it distorts the shape and flattens the flowers. The advantage of pressed flowers is that they can be easily mounted and framed. Use these flowers for pressing: Asters, bleeding heart, buttercups, chrysanthemums, columbine, cosmos, dahlia, dogwood, English daisy, geranium, larkspur, lily of the valley, marigold, pansies, poppies, sweet peas, violets, and zinnia. Avoid heavy, fleshy flowers such as hybrid tea roses.

Learn more about Preserving Flowers, with University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator, Alicia Kallal. In this YouTube program, Alicia teaches several techniques you can use at home to preserve flowers and foliage for long-term enjoyment.   

The beauty of a flower in bloom is a fleeting pleasure. To extend their beauty, consider adding flowers to your garden this year that preserve easily. 

Originally Published in Canton Ledger Column on 5-5-18

Philodendron or Pothos

I am so fortunate that I had opportunities during this cold, snowy winter to visit two tropical locations. I went to Costa Rica in December to pick up my son from his semester of studying abroad and I just returned from my husband’s employee reward trip to the Dominican Republic. 

Obviously, I enjoyed the warm, sunny weather in both locations, but I also love seeing the tropical plants there. Many native plants there are ones that we grow here as houseplants. 

pothos on left and philodendron on right

Two that always impress me in their native habitat are philodendron and pothos. Many houseplants are referred to as philodendron, but most are probably pothos. Both are vining plants with green leaves, but they are quite different. Let me try to explain. 

Philodendrons are groups of tropical plants with variously shaped and colored leaves. Most people grow the heartleaf philodendron (Philodendron scandens subsp. oxycardium). This is a rapidly growing vine plant. It has familiar heart-shaped, dark green leaves on slender, flexible vines. This plant grows rapidly. All philodendrons are popular because they tolerate very low light and variable temperatures.

Pothos are quite different plants. The pothos (also called Devil’s Ivy) is also a tropical vine. The difference is that it has crisp, shiny leaves with gold, white, or yellow markings. The most common pothos is the silver pothos (Epipremnum aureum ‘Marble Queen’). It has smooth, waxy leaves variegated with white, especially when young. Pothos need a bit more light and warmer temperatures than philodendrons. In fact, pothos need higher lights levels to develop good leaf markings and variegation.

Both plants do something extraordinary when grown in their preferred tropical environment. They can produce both juvenile and adult leaves. Typically, we only see the juvenile leaves in our home environments. Adult leaves are larger and sometime shaped differently than the juvenile leaves. You’ll see the larger adult leaves at the top of the vining plant once it reaches a certain height. 

These plants are listed as two of the top best plants to clean indoor air. Research done by NASA in the late 1980’s found that several houseplants remove common indoor pollutants such as those found in carpets, furniture, building materials, and cleaning products. The study recommends having at least 15 air cleaning houseplants for the average 2,000 square foot home. 

Do you have pothos and philodendron growing in your house? If not, find a friend who does and have them propagate one for you.

Originally Published in Canton Ledger Column on 2-22-2014 

Poisonous Houseplants

Our family recently (November 2004) added two new puppies to the household. They are seven-week-old Chihuahuas and quite lively, not to mention entertaining. Like most “toddlers” they tend to get into everything and chew on everything but the chew toys. I’ve had to “baby proof” my house all over again, including taking a good look at the houseplants to assure poisonous ones are not within reach. 

Unfortunately, there are a few houseplants that are quite poisonous to humans and/or animals. Remember that there are three routes of exposure for poisoning: through the skin, inhaling through the nose, or eating. I’ll focus only on stomach poisons here that are a problem if eaten. With stomach poisons it is important to remember “the dose makes the poison.” In other words, an amount that won’t hurt a large dog might kill a small one. 

Dumbcane (Dieffenbachia sp.)

There are several houseplants that contain calcium oxalate, a chemical that causes severe burning and tongue swelling. Examples of plants with this chemical include dumbcane (Dieffenbachia sp.), heartleaf philodendron (Philodendron cordata), anthurium, caladium, Swiss cheese plant (Monstera deliciosa), spathiphyllum, arrowhead vine (Syngonium podophyllum), and devils ivy or pothos (Epipremnum aureum). Most of these plants cause painful and immediate swelling of the mouth and throat after chewing on plant tissue. Speech impediment can occur, sometimes lasting for several days.

Some plants contain latex type juices. Examples include aloe and poinsettia. Ingestion of the latex can cause a cathartic (purging) reaction by irritating the large intestine. The actual toxins in poinsettia are unknown, although it is no longer classified as extremely toxic. Reactions to poinsettia for humans range from dermatitis to nausea and vomiting. 

During the holiday season, also beware of toxic holiday plants. Holly berries (Ilex species) can induce vomiting, diarrhea and stupor. Holly foliage (Hedera helix) berries contain saponins, which can cause a burning sensation in the throat and gastronomical upset with vomiting and diarrhea. Jerusalem Cherry (Solanum pseudocapsicum) fruit or foliage should not be eaten. 

Mistletoe (Phoradendron species) berries may result in vomiting, diarrhea and moderate stomach and intestinal pain.  In severe cases there may be labored breathing, dramatically lowered blood pressure, and heart failure.

Please don’t despair. There are many houseplants and decorations that are not toxic. Example of nontoxic houseplants include African violet, baby tears, Boston fern, coleus, Christmas cactus, dracaena, jade, palm, pepperomia, prayer plant, sansevieria (Mother-in-Laws Tongue), schefflera, spider plant, Swedish ivy, wandering Jew, and zebra plant. 

Keep the toxic plants out of the reach of pets and children!

Originally Published in Canton Ledger Column on November 13, 2004  

Paperwhite Narcissus

This week (November 2022) at our Holiday Happenings program we gave away several door prizes, including a paperwhite narcissus kit. Paperwhites are routinely sold in stores this time of year. Like Amaryllis, you force them into bloom in your home. 

Many bulbs are easy to grow indoors for seasonal display and beauty. Narcissus, also called daffodil, are available in many types and colors. Large and small trumpet flowers are available in yellows, creams, and white. 

The paperwhite narcissus is the one most commonly sold for forcing indoors. The boxed bulb kit includes a pre-cooled bulb that is all ready to bloom indoors. Simply pot up and water thoroughly to get it started. 

You can also start your own indoor bulb garden. Almost any bulb will work. Plant the bulbs in pots or bowls, using an indoor soil mix. Place the bulb tips at or slightly above the soil surface. Water thoroughly. Keep planted bulbs dark and cool (35 – 400F) for about 8 weeks. Most people put them in the refrigerator or a cool garage. 

Whichever method you use, once the bulb starts to grow, keep it in a warm, bright location. Do not fertilize. Continue to water as needed. After flowering, either throw away or you can try to keep it for reblooming. Unfortunately, precooled bulbs from kits are often hard to get to rebloom. 

If you try the paperwhite, I must warn you to be prepared. Paperwhites have a very distinctive smell that most people do not find pleasant. It doesn’t bother everyone, but some people really don’t like the odor. Still, it is a beautiful flower and worth trying. 

By the way, there is always confusion over the names of this flower. They are called narcissus, daffodil, and jonquil and many people think all three are synonymous. Narcissus is the generic name and is also used as a common name. Daffodil is a common name that was brought here by the English. Jonquil, however, refers to a specific flower type (Narcissus jonquilla) that has a reed like leaf and sweet-smelling flowers. 

Narcissus is a classical Greek name. According to Greek mythology, Narcissus was a beautiful youth who became so entranced with his own reflection that the gods turned him into a flower. 

Happy Thanksgiving! Remember this is National Family Week.  Take time to share and reminisce with your family. Do not let the hectic meal preparations stand in the way of quality time with your loved ones.

Originally Published in Canton Ledger Column on November 23, 2002

Overwintering Tropical Plants

Tropical plants are popular in the outdoor landscape. These include banana, elephant ear, canna, mandevilla, coleus, and more. Unfortunately, in our Midwestern landscapes, they are basically “one-timers.” They die quickly if exposed to freezing temperatures. Here are a few tips on how to save your tropical plants for use again next year.

Fortunately, there are techniques to overwinter many of these plants thus saving you time and money by having the plants on hand when you need them next spring. Instead of buying new each year, consider overwintering valuable specimens. The measures you take depend on the particular plant and its value, as well as the facilities you have to successfully overwinter them.

There are five basic choices when it comes to overwintering tropicals: 

1. overwinter the plant as a growing houseplant if you have proper conditions indoors,
2. store it as a dormant plant, tuber, or root,
3. collect seed,
4. take cuttings, or 
5. leave it outside in a protected location providing it with suitable mulch or covering. 

Variegated banana growing with
Setcreasea (Purple heart plant)

Many tropicals can be overwintered as houseplants. Large specimen palms, bananas, and ficus can be brought indoors and enjoyed so long as two requirements are met – high amounts of light and added humidity. Provide plants with the brightest location possible. Locate plants in high humidity areas if good light is available or group plants together. Grouping naturally raises the humidity in the vicinity. Expect some leaf loss when they are brought indoors from their outdoor location. 

Elephant ears along my garden pond

Many tropical plants such as elephant ear, canna and caladium form bulbs, tubers or corms. When these plants die back, these underground structures can be dug and stored in a cool, dark place through the winter. The best time to dig the bulbs and tubers is after a light frost has killed the tops back. Trim the stems down to 4-6 inches and dig the plant up. Allow the tubers to dry slightly for a day or so before storing. Place the tubers in a crate or box with ventilation holes and bury the tubers in peat moss or wood shavings. Place the box in a cool (45-50 degree), dark area. Inspect the tubers regularly through the winter checking for rotting or excessive shrinkage. If tubers are drying out, add just mist a small amount of moisture on the peat. Check out my Elephant Ears video on YouTube.

Enjoy your tropical plants indoors this winter. They’ll provide a bright, warm look to your home on a dark winter’s day.

Originally Published in Canton Ledger Column on October 10, 2011

Orchids Make Elegant Houseplants

I have a couple orchids at home but have not had great success with them. Sandy Mason, Illinois Master Gardener Coordinator, writes the following about orchids. She also teaches a webinar about moth orchids. I’m hoping that Sandy will show me how to make my orchids grow better. 

My Dad's (Ron Simmons) orchid

Not all orchids enjoy the temperature and humidity commonly found in homes; therefore, some may require special lighting and humidity control for indoor growing. “An orchid obsession is easily cultivated by many enthusiasts,” Sandra Mason says. “However, if you are looking for an easy-to-grow and elegant houseplant, moth orchids are a great option.

“Phalaenopsis or moth orchids possess dark, shiny green leaves adorned with showy flowers of pink, white, or yellow. Imagine a flock of fluttering moths dancing on an arching high wire,” Mason says. “Moth orchids are native to Asian jungles. In the U.S., we find them in stores fluttering next to the apples and lettuce or lumber and nails. 

According to Mason, moth orchids are not only easy to grow but also one of the easiest to encourage to re-bloom. 'Sussex pearl,' femme fatale,' or 'southern ruby' are just some of the 12,000 hybrid "phals" available. The flowers will last an amazing two to five months. “I had one flowering in my office for so long, visitors thought it was a wax replica,” Mason says.

Unlike other common houseplants, moth orchids do not live in soil. They are epiphytes, so-called air plants. As Asian jungle natives, they cling with long thick roots to rocks and trees. Their moisture is gathered from rain, dew, and humidity and their nutrients from decaying leaves and other debris that accumulates among their roots. “This likely does not describe your living room,” Mason says, “but the conditions are fairly easy to reproduce by paying attention to light levels and watering practices and using an orchid planting mix.”

Mason offers a few simple steps for growing moth orchids as beautiful houseplants.

Orchids require bright light (but no direct sun) to bloom, such as an east or shaded west or south window. 

Generally, orchids bloom when night temperatures are cooler than day temperatures.        

Orchids appreciate high humidity between 40 and 85 percent; however, moth orchids are more forgiving than many orchids of the dry air in our winter homes. 

Orchids need thorough watering and regular fertilization during their growing season. 

Don’t overwater. 

The potting mix should provide good air penetration and fast water drainage. 

Learn more about Sandy’s orchid tips at her webinar when she will discuss how this easy-to-grow moth orchid makes an excellent houseplant.  In this webinar, state Master Gardener Coordinator, Sandy Mason, will help you learn how to grow, repot and even rebloom moth orchids.   

Moth Orchids – Start an Orchid Odyssey is available free on YouTube for home viewing.

Originally Published in Canton Ledger Column on 2-25-17 

Norfolk Island Pine

The Norfolk Island Pine is commonly sold as a holiday plant. It is sometimes even used as a small indoor Christmas tree. Often the small trees are sold already decorated with little balls and tinsel. 

Norfolk Island Pines are very formal looking plants. The branches are horizontal forming tiers of foliage around the branches at regular intervals along the stem. It has a graceful form with drooping branch tips. 

Norfolk Island Pines (Araucaria heterophylla) are subtropical trees from the Norfolk Islands in the South Pacific. They grow quite large (200 feet tall) in tropical settings. In our cold climate, however, we grow them as houseplants that reach six feet tall by four feet wide. These elegant, tolerant conifers will thrive for many years in home conditions. They are quite easy to grow if a few guidelines are remembered. 

A common complaint of this plant is needle drop. Needle drop can result from sudden dry air, drafts, or dry soil. Remember that these are tropical plants and therefore must be covered during transport from the store to your home. Place these plants where the tree will not be damaged by traffic, as broken branches do not grow back. 

Give this plant plenty of light and the proper moisture. Steady, moderate light, not necessarily direct sun, is best. In low light, branches become long and droopy, and top growth slows. As with most houseplants, allow the soil to dry between watering. Overwatering can lead to loss of branches. 

These plants can tolerate temperatures as low as 45 degrees F, but do best between 65- and 75-degrees F. A subtropical plant, such as this one, will not tolerate temperatures for long below 40 degrees F. without showing damage. 

Norfolk Island pine is a long-lasting houseplant that grows slowly at only three to six inches annually, if you’re lucky. I have had mine since 1984. I got it at the University of Illinois Horticulture Club’s Mothers’ Weekend flower show when it was about 8 inches tall. My plant has moved with me many times and has not always had the “perfect” location. Today, it is about five-feet tall and sits in a corner of my living room. I love this plant!

Enjoy your Norfolk Island pine this holiday season or pick up a new one. With proper care it will be with you for years to come.

Originally Published in Canton Ledger Column on December 8, 2012

The Meaning of Flowers

Valentine’s Day is just around the corner. Do you have flowers ordered for your loved one? Flowers are a great way to communicate your love and affection. Over the years, flowers have developed meaning and are known to convey a special message.

Flowers can represent everything from friendship to true love. Chrysanthemums show friendship. Gardenias represent secret love. Lilies are a traditional wedding flower and mean chastity, innocence, and purity. Give a primrose to say, “I can’t live without you.” Another popular wedding bouquet flower is the Stephanotis to show happiness in marriage. Tulips are given to the perfect lover and more specifically a red tulip declares your love. Finally, orchids are commonly given as corsages to show love and beauty.

Rhonda Ferree's wedding bouquet (with her niece Tiffany)

But no other flower shows more meaning than a rose. According to the Rose Information Bureau, each rose color has a special meaning. All roses symbolize love, but certain colors of roses can take on special meanings. What’s more, when several colors in various stages of bloom are combined in one arrangement, your floral bouquet can speak a whole sentence instead of just one thought. Here are some of the most widely accepted meanings for different rose colors, blooms, and arrangements: 

• Red roses show love, respect, or courage
• Yellow roses represent joy, gladness, or freedom
• Pink/peach roses exude gratitude, appreciation, admiration, or sympathy
• White roses demonstrate reverence, purity, or secrecy
• Two roses joined together display engagement
• Red and white roses together prove unity

Additionally, rosebuds say, “You are young and beautiful.” A single rose stands for simplicity. In full bloom, it means “I love you” or “I love you still,” and a bouquet of roses in full bloom signifies gratitude. 

Happy Valentine’s Day everyone!

Originally Published in Canton Ledger Column on 1-30-16

Houseplants Clean Air in Our Homes

I need to purchase some houseplants for my home and office. I am looking for houseplants that will help clean the air. Why? Because research shows that houseplants play an important role in cleaning the air we breathe.

A team of National Aeronautics and Space Administration (NASA) researchers lead by Dr. Bill Wolverton tested the effect of fifteen houseplants on three pollutants known to be present in spacecrafts. 

These same three pollutants--benzene, formaldehyde and trichloroethylene--are present in homes and office buildings. Benzene is a very commonly used solvent that is present in many common items including gasoline, inks, oils, paints, plastics, and rubber. Formaldehyde is a chemical found in virtually all indoor environments, including modern office furniture, grocery bags, and in floor coverings, carpet backings and permanent-press clothes. Trichloroethylene (TCE) is used in printing inks, paints, lacquers, varnishes, and adhesives.

NASA found that certain houseplants removed as much as 87 percent of indoor air pollutants within 24 hours under controlled conditions. Each plant type was placed in sealed, Plexiglas chambers in which chemicals were injected. 

Aglaonema (Chinese Evergreen)

The top plants included Bamboo Palm, Chinese Evergreen (Aglaonema), English Ivy, Gerbera Daisy, Janet Craig Dracaena, Corn Plant Dracaena, Mother-in-Law's Tongue, Pot Mum, Peace Lily, Warneckii, Dracaena, Philodendron, Spider Plant and Golden Pothos. 

Assorted Houseplants

Most effective in removing formaldehyde was the philodrendron, spider plant, and pothos. Flowering plants such as gerbera daisy and chrysanthemums were rated superior in removing benzene from the chamber atmosphere. Other good performers are Dracaena 'Massangeana', Spathiphyllum, and Golden Pothos. "Plants take substances out of the air through the tiny openings in their leaves," Wolverton said. "But research in our laboratories has determined that plant leaves, roots and soil bacteria are all important in removing trace levels of toxic vapors".

 The NASA researchers suggest that for the test plants to be effective "air cleaners" it is necessary to use one potted plant per 100 square feet of home or office space. 

Add houseplants to your home and office. Not only are they nice to look at, but they also make your air cleaner to breathe.

Originally published in Canton Daily Ledger on 2-7-2004 

Houseplant Insects

I recently discovered scale insects on one of my houseplants. They are on my Anthurium (Flamingo Flower) and are causing the leaves to turn yellow and drop off. I know several of you also have an occasional problem with insects on your houseplants. Today I will cover a few of the sucking insects. 

Sucking insects suck the plant’s sugary sap, causing the leaves to turn yellow. Since these insects cannot fully digest all the sugar, they secrete a sticky substance called honeydew. Examples include scale, mealybugs, and aphids. Houseplants infected with these insects will have sticky leaves and sticky areas below the plants. 

Oystershell scale on maple

Scale insects are hard to see. They are brown or gray in color and extremely small. To the untrained eye, they may be unobservable, or you might think they are part of the plant. Upon close examination, you will notice round, oval, or shell-shaped clusters residing upon the branches and stems of infected houseplants. These clusters (scales) can be scraped off the stem. The insects live under this scale, which makes control difficult. 

Scale insects have 3 stages of growth: egg, crawler, and adult. Only the crawlers are easily controlled. Crawlers hatch from eggs and move across the plant. Eventually they lose all their appendages and secrete a waxy covering that forms the observed “shells” which protect the pests. 

Mealybug (in center of picture)

Mealybugs are more obvious. They appear as small, white cottony balls that cluster at the base of leaves. Since they are small, mealybugs hide at the base of leaves and make control difficult. 

Aphids are not as common indoors but do occasionally occur. These also are very small. Aphids are an eighth inch long and come in many different colors: green, pink, red, yellow, brown, or black. In the right situation, aphids build in large numbers, clustering upon new growth and stems. 

For all three of these insects, the control methods are similar. Thoroughly clean plant parts with a cloth dipped in soapy water (for example Ivory or Pine sol). Use 1-2 tablespoons per gallon of water. To get thorough coverage, you might even try spraying the soap solution on with a hand-pump spray bottle. 

In lieu of making your own insecticidal soap, you can purchase them. Commercial insecticidal soaps include fatty materials and smell like grease. Follow all label directions carefully. I do not recommend anything stronger than soap if used in the home. Repeated applications will be necessary. It also sometimes helps to isolate infested plants. 

If the infestation is very bad (and as a last resort), you may need to throw that plant away and purchase a new one. 

Originally published in Canton Daily Ledger on 2-3-2001

Flowering Houseplants: Gerbera Daisy and More

What could be cheerier than a flowering houseplant in your home during the winter? There are different types available ranging from African violets to orchids. 

Gerbera Daisy

Right now, I have a beautiful gerbera daisy blooming in my dining room. Actually, this plant was the centerpiece on my outdoor patio table last summer. I brought it indoors for the winter and it is blooming again. 

Gerbera is a member of the sunflower family. Therefore, it has the typical sunflower look of striking petals surrounding a center. Petals are available in yellow, orange, cream, white, pink or red colors. The center of the flower is sometimes black. 

Gerbera is very popular and widely used as a decorative garden plant or as cut flowers. The plants today are a cross between Gerbera jamesonii and Gerbera viridifolia, resulting in a Gerbera hybrid with thousands of cultivars. They vary greatly in shape and size. Often the same flower can have petals of several different colors.

The big, colorful daisy blooms are on 12-18 inch stems. The plant itself is an 8-12 inch round mass of leaves. 

Gerbera prefer to grow in bright light, warm temperatures, and partly dry soil. It works well outside in our hot, dry summers but be sure to bring it inside before the first frost. Mine grows inside in a southern exposure window. 

Other flowering plants to try indoors include streptocarpus, sinningia, cineraria, primrose, hibiscus, gardenia, cyclamen, and more. Most of these need medium to bright light and good humidity. 

Anthurium

A good option for medium to low light is the anthurium. This tropical plant has unusual, long-lasting flowers in red, pink, and white. The flowers are leaf-like (bracts) with a fleshy spike (spadix) coming from one end. Although they prefer good humidity, they will flower well indoors. Anthurium prefers partially dry soil and is typically planted in a bark-like mix. 

A popular cultivar is Anthurium ‘Lady Jane’. It has slender, clear pink bracts that curve open to reveal long, pink-tipped spadix. It also has glossy dark green leaves. 

Try a flowering plant in your home this winter. They will brighten your day!

Originally published in Canton Daily Ledger on 12-30-2006

Lucky or Curly Bamboo

While on the Spoon River Drive last weekend I (October 2006) came across some curly (or lucky) bamboo for sale. This is a trendy plant that is found many places, including many malls. 

This plant is not a bamboo at all, but the popular houseplant Dracaena. This is a tropical plant native to Southeast Asia or west tropical Africa. You will often find Dracaena growing in dish gardens. 

So how do they transform Dracaena into curly bamboo? As they age, these plants tend to develop long branchless stems with tufts of leaves at the top. Older stems are cut into various lengths and manipulated to twist and turn. Since this plant normally grows straight, growers place the plants in a space with light on only one side. Plants naturally grow toward light. To get them to twist, the plants are manually rotated periodically, forcing a new section to grow toward the light. 

Dracaena (or curly bamboo) is easy to grow. They grow in very low to high light and will grow in soil or water. When growing in water, consistently use one to three inches and change the water every two to three weeks. The plant will produce roots wherever the joints are covered with water. The higher the water level, the more roots it will develop, which can also add to the appearance, particularly in a clear vase. You can also add marbles, river rocks, or polished stones to the container for a decorative touch and to help hold the stalks upright. 

According to Susan Mahr, University of Wisconsin – Madison, the plants can last for years in just plain water. However, Mahr suggests adding a droplet of liquid fertilizer to the water periodically to provide nutrients and help the plant grow more vigorously (supposedly the longer the leaves, the more fortune that is bestowed to you, so fertilizer may really be beneficial!). 

Curly bamboo is used in flower arrangements for unusual interest or alone as special decorations. It has many symbolizations and customs associated with it. It is a centuries old custom to break off a stalk for guests to take home. According to Feng Shui principles, it symbolizes good fortune and is popular during times of celebration. Supposedly three stalks attract happiness, five attract wealth, seven results in good health, and twenty-one stalks offer a very powerful all-purpose blessing. The stalks are often arranged in tiers or tied together in bundles.

Mahr says that lucky bamboo is "recommended by Feng Shui masters and practitioners for improving Feng Shui and creating a space where you feel safe and more energized to meet the demands of today's high-pressured world." Maybe a curly bamboo is just what you need in your home or office to live a better life. 

Originally published in Canton Daily Ledger on 10-21-2006

Clone Your Plants

Do you have an annual flower in your garden this year that you especially like and definitely want to use again next summer? You might be able to clone it using vegetative propagation methods. 

I have a coleus plant that I particularly like in my patio containers. Each fall I take a few cuttings from the plants and grow them in my kitchen windowsill for use next spring. 

If you are an avid gardener, you probably noticed that some plant tags indicate that the plant is patented and thus can’t be propagated. This is true of many of the newer types of coleus. In other words, you can't propagate the patented plant by cuttings or division to sell.

Houseplant cuttings in water and soil

To get started, you’ll need containers, a sterile cutting tool, soil, and a makeshift greenhouse. The container could be anything. I often use disposable cups. Use a good, sterile rooting media that is pre-moistened. I suggest purchasing a premixed potting soil. For best results, create a “greenhouse” for the new plants to grow in until they are well established. I typically use ziplock bags or the little plastic zipper bags that curtains come in. Place your new plant starts in indirect light, opening the bag slightly to provide ventilation without losing humidity inside the bag. 

Division is the easiest way to propagate houseplants that form clumps such as ferns, mother-in-law’s tongue, African violets, spider plants, philodendron, pothos, and more. Simply knock the plant out of its pots and pull the sections apart with your hands. Tough roots sometimes must be cut apart with a kitchen knife. Repot the divisions immediately, add water, and watch your “new” plants grow. 

Cuttings are very simple and can be done several ways. Stem cuttings are taken from the ends of branches. Simply remove 3 or 4 inches of the terminal or end growth just below a node (leaf joint). Some common plants that can be started this way are coleus, geranium, ivy, begonia, and many of the philodendrons.  Simply insert the node of a stem into loose potting soil, water, and watch it grow. 

Want to learn more! Vegetative propagation is an excellent way for hobby gardeners to multiply their favorite plants at home and reap the rewards. Kim Elison, Horticulture Educator, discusses the advantages of propagation in her Four Seasons Gardening YouTube program. She provides detailed insight into various propagation methods including cuttings, grafting, layering and division. 

Consider hosting a plant cloning party this fall. Cloning plants is fun and a great way to share plants among family and friends. 

Originally published in Canton Daily Ledger on 9-26-2015

Bromeliads

My husband Mark and I recently (October 2004) stayed at the Opryland Hotel in Nashville. Opryland is a plant lover’s paradise. It has cascading waterfalls, numerous tropical plants, and many beautiful fountains. 

I spent many hours walking among the tropical plants, reviewing plant names, taking pictures, and simply enjoying the natural beauty. I cannot pick out a favorite, but one bromeliad especially caught my eye.

Bromeliads are in the pineapple family. There are many different types of bromeliads, each with a different exotic look.  They are curvy or straight, large or miniature, dense or light, but all are bold and colorful. Most have brilliant, long-lasting flowers. 

Tillandsia bromeliads are better known as air plants. These grow without soil or added water. You have probably seen them stuffed in little shells and sold as refrigerator magnets. They are also commonly found displayed on driftwood or other small containers. They do required misting and do best in warm, moist areas such as the bathroom or kitchen. Spanish moss is another good example of a Tillandsia. 

The most common bromeliads are the Aechmeas or Urn plants. They hold water in their central cupped leaves. They do require water but can rot if overwatered. They prefer to have their water in their basal leaves to use when they need it. These bromeliads do best in diffused bright light but tolerate some shade. Their flowers grow in colorful clusters above stiff leaves. 

Guzmania in University of Illinois Conservatory

Guzmania are common in many malls and large interiorscapes. These have glossy rosettes of arched, spreading leaves and long-lasting flowers. Guzmania work well in low light conditions. 

Vriesea are the second most commonly grown bromeliad. These are medium size, with soft or firm, variously green but often spotted, blotched or distinctly marked leaves. Flowers are yellow, green or white with brightly colored bracts and may be upright like a spear, pendulous or even curved. 

So which one caught my eye at Opryland? I’m not positive, but it looks a lot like the Aechmea fendleri. It had an impressive brush of lavender-colored flowers on a pink stem dusted with a white bloom. The stem was about a foot tall. Leaves were a large green rosette, with a slight silver tinge. They used the plant in window boxes and in ground beds. 

As you can see, there are many different types of bromeliads. Many make wonderful houseplants and are quite easy to grow. Look for some on your next shopping trip.

Originally published in Canton Daily Ledger on 10-23-2004

Bring Houseplants in Now

I love moving my houseplants outdoors to the porch and patio in the summer. They add peace and beauty to any outdoor room. Unfortunately, they cannot stay there all year. Now is the time to start bringing houseplants in. During the move take the time to groom and clean the plants. And, while you are at it, also consider “fall-cleaning” the plants that remained indoors during the summer. 

Move plants back indoors before nights reach 45 degrees F. Most tropical houseplants are very sensitive to temperature extremes and may show injury symptoms below 45 degrees F. Symptoms of cold injury range from complete leaf collapse to subtle changes in leaf color. 

Clean and groom plants to keep them healthy, clean, and attractive. Also, check each plant to see if it has become root bound. If it is outgrowing its pot, repot it into a bigger pot using a good potting soil mix. Clean plant leaves to remove dust and dirt build-up with 1-teaspoon non-phosphate soap in 1 quart of water. Commonly used soaps include Ivory dish soap and PineSol, but many others are okay too. Use a sponge, cleaning cloth, or paper towel to wipe all surfaces of the leaves clean. Wipe down containers too. Another cleaning option is to spray plants with a non-ammonia glass-cleaning product (such as Sparkle) and wipe clean. Hairy plants should be cleaned only with a brush or feather duster. 

Groom plants by removing debris. Debris found on the plant, on the top of the soil, or at the bottom of the container should be cleaned out regularly. Keep the plant attractive by trimming off old flower heads and all dead or dying leaves. Plants kept outdoors during the summer may need pruning to fit back indoors. Isolate the plants from those already in the house until they are determined to be pest-free. 

Do not despair if some leaves drop after moving the plant indoors. The plant will need to adjust to differences in light levels and watering. Most growing conditions in a home only allow plants to maintain current growth. Some plants, such as Ficus, will adjust to lower light levels by dropping leaves and forming new ones. Others will simply drop lower, older leaves. Water carefully since they will not require as much water as they did outside. The most common mistake homeowners make indoors is watering too much.

Finally, do not fertilize houseplants in the winter. Plants only need fertilizer when they are actively growing. In the winter, most houseplants do not grow much and therefore do not typically need fertilizing. 

Moving nature back indoors for the winter allows homes to come alive. In fact, recent studies indicate that houseplants help keep people happier and healthier. Plants fill an important psychological function and are also proven to cleanse indoor air. Enjoy your plants as you move them in. If you don’t have a houseplant, go buy one. 

Originally published in Canton Daily Ledger on 9-26-1998

Boston Fern

You have probably noticed that many traditional houseplants are now sold as annual hanging plants. One common example is the Boston fern. I had two big, beautiful ones this summer hanging in my gazebo. Unfortunately, I did not have a place to move them inside and will need to buy new ones next spring. Hopefully, some of you were able to move in your Boston ferns for the winter or maybe you already had an indoor Boston fern. 

The Boston fern is a mutation of the sword fern that was found near Boston in the 1890’s. It soon became a fixture of the overstuffed parlors of the time, but later became known as an old-fashioned plant. In the past twenty years, it has regained popularity. Today it has many uses including specimen pedestals, accent for tables, baskets, contrast for dish gardens or group plantings, and indoor groundcovers. 

The Boston fern (Nephrolepis exaltata ‘Bostoniensis’) has graceful, arching fronds up to 3 feet long with flat 3- to 4-inch closely set leaflets. In addition, there are several mutations with different frond types. ‘Bostoniensis’ is more graceful and drooping than other varieties. ‘Fluffy Ruffles’ is a smaller plant, which grows more erect than other varieties. It has dark green fronds that grow about 12 inches long. The foliage has a finely ruffled appearance. ‘Dallas’ is also a smaller, compact plant with a curlier leaf. It is also tolerant of lower light and lower humidity. 

As with all houseplants, proper water and light are key to success in the home. Medium to high light is ideal. They do best with sun in winter and diffused bright light to partial shade in the summer. Gradual yellowing and decline usually indicate poor light. Move the plant or prune away shade-producing vegetation.

As with most ferns, the Boston fern prefers a humid environment. This is hard to achieve in most homes. Because the plant is sensitive to chlorine and other chemicals often found in tap water, regular misting is generally not recommended. Try to always keep the soil moist, but not soggy. The plants can be allowed to dry out between waterings if not excessively fertilized. Remember there is a fine line between moist and soggy. This plant’s foliage and roots rot in wet conditions.

Other maintenance tips include cutting older fronds back to soil level to encourage fresh new growth. General grooming of brown leaflets is desirable. Sometimes, spore-bearing spots (sori) will appear on the underside of leaflets. These are normal and should not be removed. If you prefer to fertilize, use a general indoor plant fertilizer at one-quarter recommended strength every 4-6 weeks. This plant can take being root-bound, so repot infrequently. Repot only as needed to renew crowded or overgrown plants. Simply move the overgrown plant into a bigger pot or divide it into several new plants.

Finally, place your Boston fern where people are not tempted to touch the fronds. Fronds will not tolerate being handled and will turn brown.

Originally published in Canton Daily Ledger on 11-13-1999

Asparagus Fern

Last week (November 2005) a couple at choir gave me an asparagus fern from their yard. They said that they simply had too many plants this year to move them all into the house for the winter. 

Asparagus fern in Florida landscape

Asparagus fern is one of many plants that makes a nice houseplant and serves as an annual plant outdoors in the summer. Many people simply throw them away and purchase new plants the next year, but with some effort the plants can be brought indoors and reused from year to year. 

Asparagus fern is not a fern at all, but a plant belonging to the lily family. It originates from West Africa and will thrive under the most adverse conditions. 

Leaves on the plant are scale-like or spiny and light green. The plant grows into long hanging displays. Because of the fine texture of the plant, it works well as an accent plant and is often used in container arrangements. 

It is very easy to grow and tolerates of a variety of growing conditions. It prefers medium light conditions and somewhat dry soil. However, keep the soil lightly moist until the top growth is established on new plantings. If fronds (leaves) are turning yellow, there may be too little or too much light (or water). 

Don’t be afraid to trim the plant. In fact, in the spring overgrown plants can be cut back to soil level when they are moved outdoors. This will revive them into a new, better plant. Often the stems need trimming to encourage bushiness so that plants aren’t sending little spindly stems all over the room. 

The most used asparagus fern is Asparagus densiflorus ‘Sprengeri’ or Sprengeri Fern. This is the one with wiry stems that can grow to 36 inches long with arching and trailing, loosely branched stems of bright green fluffy needles. 

There are other varieties available that you might want to try. The Lace Fern (Asparagus setaceus) has long, climbing, wiry stems with flattened triangular clusters of fernlike needles. You sometimes see this fine textured foliage used in floral arrangements. 

Ming Fern (Asparagus macowanii) is an upright, woody plant that grows two to six inches tall with short branches. It has bright soft green needles that look like a bonsai. 

The Foxtail Fern (Asparagus densiflorus) has stiff upright and spreading stems that grow to 24 inches long. It has dark green needles just like on the Sprengeri Fern, but instead of trailing they are all in stiff, upright stems. 

Enjoy your fern year-round. You might also try a Boston fern or Rabbit’s foot fern or maybe even a stag horn fern (if you like a challenge). 

Originally published in Canton Daily Ledger on 11-5-2008

Plants That Move

No, plants do not have legs, but they do move. Although I don’t see it happen, each week my African violet leaves lean toward the light requiring me to straighten them with a quarter turn. I also don’t see the prayer plants fold their leaves each night and reopen them each morning.

Usually, plant movement is very subtle. Yet, there are a few plants that will move right before your eyes. Here are some examples. 

When I was a kid, I remember watching with awe as Mexican jumping beans leaped above my hand. In this case, it isn’t the plant’s seed that is jumping but rather an insect inside it. The “bean” jumped in my hand because the moth larvae inside was trying to get away from my warm hand to a cooler location. Too much heat can cause the caterpillar to dry out and die. Though called beans, they are seeds of a shrub that is native to Mexico. 

While visiting my son Derek in Costa Rica a few years ago, I saw mimosa sensitive plants growing in their natural environment near a volcano. Sensitive plants immediately fold their leaves inward when touched. This is a defense strategy thought to remove harmful insects or to scare herbivores. The leaves quickly roll back out and resume their normal growth processes.

Sensitive Plant growing in Costa Rica

Some plants have parts that move quickly. I loved showing my boys the exploding jewelweed seeds during woodland hikes. Jewelweed, also called touch-me-not, is a type of native impatiens that grows in moist places. The fruit explodes when ripe to distribute its seeds. You’ll find both yellow and orange touch-me-nots growing in Illinois.

Orange Jewelweed (Impatiens capensis)

Most people are familiar with the Venus Flytrap. It is one of many carnivorous plants. Most plants get their food from nutrients in the soil, but a carnivorous plant also eats meat. Carnivorous plants grow in wet, boggy soils where plants have trouble obtaining the nitrogen, so they must supplement their diet with insects.

The mean-looking Venus flytraps have leaves that resemble small mouths that are lined with lots of teeth. When an unsuspecting insect walks across small triggering hairs inside the “mouth,” the leaf bites down to trap the insect. It then releases digestive enzymes to digest parts of the insect. After a few days, the trap opens back up and waits for its next victim.

There are many other types of carnivorous plants. You can learn more about them by watching the University of Illinois Extension Four Seasons Gardening YouTube video Cultivating Carnivores. University of Illinois Horticulture educator Ken Johnson discusses why carnivorous plants have evolved to ‘eat’ meat, the different ways carnivorous plants go about capturing their prey as well as their unique care requirements.

Published in Canton Daily Ledger Column on 9-9-2017